提花真丝领带织物组织设计与实践  

Structure Design and Practice of Jacquard Silk Tie Fabric

作　　者：陈敏[1] 罗炳金[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江纺织服装职业技术学院纺织学院

出　　处：《纺织导报》2018年第7期65-68,共4页China Textile Leader

摘　　要：基于生产工艺和实际案例,结合纹样设计和真丝原料特点,讨论提花真丝织物的单层组织结构和重纬组织结构设计。在单层组织结构的基础上,可采用组织变化过渡法和停撬针使用法来增加织物纹理和层次的丰富性。在真丝领带产品设计过程中,可通过纬丝的抛梭变化方式,如常抛、换道、抛道来增加织物视觉和触觉效应,并且要考虑各条纹组织配置的松紧均衡,必需注意表面组织及背衬组织的配合和真丝领带织物裁剪的问题。Combining with the characteristics of texture design and raw material,the paper discusses the design of single-layer texture and double-weft texture of jacquard silk fabrics based on production processes and actual cases.On the basis of the single-layer texture,transition method of texture change and the regulator can be used to diversify the fabric texture and layer.And the change of extra weft can be used to increase the visual effect and provide a unique touch feeling.Besides that,the elastic equilibrium of all stripes texture should be taken into consideration,especially,the coordination of the surface and backing texture,and the tailoring problem of fabric.

关 键 词：真丝领带 织物组织 提花 单层结构:重纬设计 

分 类 号：TS145.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]