柞蚕丝织物苏木传统媒染工艺显色效果分析  

Analysis on Dyeing Effect of Sappanwood on Tussah Silk Fabric

作　　者：郭峰男 范铁明[1] 赵志军[1] 

机构地区：[1]齐齐哈尔大学美术与艺术设计学院

出　　处：《纺织导报》2018年第7期72-75,共4页China Textile Leader

基　　金：黑龙江省艺术科学规划项目(2017B120);黑龙江省哲学社会科学研究规划项目(15YSE03)

摘　　要：苏木是古代较为常用的红色染材,为了考察苏木媒染工艺对显色效果的影响,采用水煎法萃取色素,使用白矾为媒染剂,分别在60、80℃,p H值7和9的条件下对柞蚕丝织物进行不同媒染工艺比较研究,对所得颜色特征值进行表征分析,确定了苏木媒染染色工艺的显色规律及色彩L~*、a~*、b~*、C~*值的范围。试验结果表明:在不同p H值和媒染工艺条件下,60℃条件下显色色相a~*值及纯度C~*值大部分均高于80℃条件下的数值。从色彩效果来看,在苏木染液p H值为7时,各媒染工艺显色呈紫红色调,在苏木染液p H值为9时,前媒染呈红紫色调,同媒染呈紫色调,后媒染呈灰红紫色调。Sappanwood is a common red dye used in ancient time in China.In order to study the dyeing effect of the traditional mordant process of sappanwood,a comparative study of different mordant processes on tussah silk fabric was conducted when the dyeing temperature was at 60℃and 80℃,and pH values was 7 and 9.And then characterization analysis of obtained color eigenvalue was conducted,and the color regularity and the range of L*values,a*values,b*values,and C*values of sappanwood mordant dyeing process were determined.Results showed that a*values and C*values under 60℃were mostly higher than that of under 80℃,with a big difference in saturation and purity.For the color effect,when the pH values of sappanwood dye liquor was at 7,it dye color showe d purplish red through the whole mordant process;and when the pH values of sappanwood dye liquor was at 9,the dye color showed reddish violet in the pre-mordant process,purple in the one-bath-mordant process,and grayish-red-purple in the postmordant process.

关 键 词：柞蚕丝织物 植物染色 苏木 染色温度 

分 类 号：TS195.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]