艺术染整"水纹冷染"工艺探讨与实践  

Research and practice of water wave cold dyeing technology

作　　者：周莉 赵爱华 顾鸣[2] 侯帮鑫 ZHOU Li;ZHAO Aihua;GU Ming;HOU Bangxin(Dyeing Division,Jiangsu Huayi Group,Nantong 226600,China;Gu Ming Art Dyeing and Finishing Studio,Jiangsu Huayi Group,Nantong 226600,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏华艺集团扎染事业部,江苏南通226600 [2]江苏华艺集团顾鸣艺术染整工作室,江苏南通226600

出　　处：《印染助剂》2018年第8期53-57,共5页Textile Auxiliaries

摘　　要：冷染工艺是通过加入一定量的粘合剂及交联剂,在湿热烘干状态下涂料吸附于纤维表层,形成独特的冷染效果。结合"华艺扎染"成衣染色经验,针对图形抽象、工艺柔性、染液回用等突出优点,开发了水纹冷染工艺。通过优化前处理工艺,筛选粘合剂种类、粘合剂用量、烘干温度、烘干时间,提高工艺成品耐摩擦色牢度;探讨了涂料带液率、水纹冷染剂用量、烘干速率对成品效果的影响。全棉梭织物采用弱碱性前处理工艺,在粘合剂A-270用量为50 g/L、涂料带液率为72%、V(助剂)/V(水)=1/20、烘干速率为1.5℃/min、烘干温度为100℃、烘干时间为40 min的工艺参数水纹冷染,成品耐干摩擦色牢度为3~4级,耐湿摩擦色牢度为3级。在艺术染整视觉创新方面能够快速响应流行趋势变化,满足客户的个性化需求。By adding a certain amount of adhesives and crosslinker,the pigment was adsorbed on the surface of the fiber under hot and humid drying,forming a unique cold dyeing effect.With"Huayi tie-dyeing"experience for garment dyeing and making full use of graphics,flexible process,dye reuse and other advantages,the cold dyeing process was developed.The color fastness of the finished product was improved by optimizing the pretreatment process,screening the kinds of adhesives,the amount of adhesive,drying temperature and drying time.The effects of liquid ratio of coating,water wave cold dyeing and dyeing rate on finishing effect were investigated.The weak alkali pretreatment process was adopted in the whole cotton fabric.The cold dyeing process was as follows:the dosage of binder A-270 50 g/L,liquid ratio of coating 72%,V(assistant)/V(water)=1/20,drying rate 1.5℃/min;drying temperature 100℃,drying time 40 min.The color fastness to dry rubbing of the finished product was 3~4 level,and the color fastness to wet rubbing was 3 level.It could respond to the fashion trend and meet the personalized needs of customers in the art of dyeing and finishing,visual innovation.

关 键 词：艺术染整 涂料染色 冷染 泳移 视觉创新 

分 类 号：TS190.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]