维多利亚时期英国服饰平民化趋势和原因的分析  

The Civilianization Tendency of British Costumes During the Victorian Era and Reason Analysis

作　　者：顾萌 宋严萍 GU Meng;SONG Yanping(School of Historical Culture and Tourism,Jiangsu Normal University,Xuzhou 221116,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏师范大学历史文化与旅游学院,江苏徐州221116

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2018年第4期9-17,共9页Fashion Guide

基　　金：江苏师范大学校级创新项目(2017YXJ089)

摘　　要：英国是世界上第一个走向现代化的国家,维多利亚时期作为英国传统与现代的融合期,许多现代文明来源于此,服饰亦不例外。随着国力的增强,英国不再追随欧洲大陆的时尚,两者的宫廷服饰似乎渐行渐远,除了重大场合,维多利亚女王也可以穿的简单朴素。这一时期大多数中上层阶级的服饰摆脱了封建等级的规范,向平民化方向发展。究其原因,有工业革命成果缝纫机、化学染料等为服饰走向大众化提供了重要的物质基础,促进服饰制造技术的革新;还有贵族阶级自身思想观念的改变对大众审美观的影响。文章通过论证维多利亚时期英国服饰平民化的特点与其原因,以此说明英国服饰的平民化趋势是社会各方面发展的结果,反过来它也在促进着英国社会的进步。Britain was the first modern country.Much modern civilization came from the fusion period of the British traditional and the modern---Victorian era,clothing was no exception.As Britain became stronger and stronger,its costumes no longer followed the fashion of the European continent and their court costumes seemed to go far away each other.In addition to the big events,Queen Victoria also wore simple and plain.During the Victorian era,most Upper-middle class’s costumes got rid of the norm feudal hierarchy and developed plebification.The key reasons were the industrial revolution achievement-sewing machines and chemical dye-provided an important material basis for the popularization of clothing and promoted reformation of the costumes manufacturing technology;and more importantly the changing of the ideology of the aristocratic class played a leading role in the public aesthetic view.This paper described the civilianization tendency of British costumes and looked for the cause during the Victorian era,which showed that the civilianization tendency of British costumes was the result of the development of all aspects of society,and in turn,they also promoted the progress of British society.

关 键 词：维多利亚时期 英国服饰 平民化趋势 

分 类 号：TS941-09[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]