清末民间高底弓鞋形制及制作工艺的研究  

Study on the and making process of folk high-heeled footbinding shoes in late Qing Dynasty

作　　者：王志成 崔荣荣[1,2] 牛犁 WANG Zhicheng;CUI Rongrong;LIU Li(College of Textile and Garment,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Jiangsu Intangible Cultural Heritage Base,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2018年第4期18-24,共7页Fashion Guide

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学重点项目(15AG004);江苏省"333工程"第二层次中青年领军人才项目(BRA2016366);江苏省社科项目(16YSB007)

摘　　要：为考证中国清末民间高底弓鞋形制与制作工艺,通过整理、测量与分类江南大学民间服饰传习馆藏28双保存完好的清末高底弓鞋实物,发现其形制丰富多变、结构严谨规范,制作工艺统一讲究。为深入研究,选取其中具有代表性的B类高底弓鞋,对实物标本进行拓取和测绘,并结合文献记载,参考前人经验,在进行多次保护性拆解与复原实践的基础上,归纳总结得出一套实际可行的制作工艺。最后将高底弓鞋放在"清末"这一特殊历史背景与社会环境下,解读其自明末清初诞生以来至清末民初逐渐没落的历史变革,指出高底弓鞋是中国制鞋传统里专为缠足妇女设计与制作的特征足服。In order to study the shape and structure and making process of folk high-heeled footbinding shoes in late Qing Dynasty,28 pairs of well preserved folk high-heeled footbinding shoes in late Qing Dynasty from the Folk Costumes Museum of Jiangnan University had been studied.It was found that their shapes were rich and varied,their structures were rigorous and standard,and the production process were unified.For further study,the type B of high-heeled footbinding shoes had been taken as a typical example,the shoes has been copied and measured according to referenced records and previous production experience.On the basis of repeated practice of protective disassembly and restoration,the paper had summed up a set of practical production process.Finally,the paper had put the folk high-heeled footbinding shoes into the‘late Qing Dynasty’which was the special historical background and social environment,studied the historical change from the late Ming Dynasty to the late Qing Dynasty.It was pointed out that high-heeled footbinding shoes were special shoes which were designed and made for footbinding women in Chinese traditional shoemaking field.

关 键 词：高底弓鞋 形制 制作工艺 时代特征 

分 类 号：TS943.6[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]