清末民初传统裤装结构及中西裤装结构比较的研究  

Study and comparative analysis on the structure of traditional trousers in the Late Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China beteen China and the West

作　　者：乔滢锦 刘瑞璞[1] QIAO Yingjin;LIU Ruipu(School of Fashion,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2018年第4期25-34,共10页Fashion Guide

摘　　要：中国传统裤装在历史中由夷传汉、由牧近农,体现了各民族文化的融合与节用尚用的中华造物美学,它是中国传统服饰形制中的重要组成部分。文章以清末民初的传统裤装样本为主要研究对象,运用文献与标本研究相结合的方法,对样本进行了数据采集、测绘、结构图复原,并与现代西化裤装结构比较,归纳了其外在与内在的结构特征,以期阐释中国传统裤装在平面裁剪中的功用与节俭理念,对探索传统裤装结构在中国传统服饰文化中的意义的实证研究具有文献价值和现实意义。The structure of traditional trousers embodied the integration of national culture and the traditional virtue on thrift in China,which was introduced from ethnic minorities and evolved from nomadic areas to farming areas,it occupied an important place in the shape of Chinese traditional costumes.This paper took the traditional trousers in the late Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China as the research object,it analyzed the structure of traditional trousers by data collection,surveying and mapping,restoring,and compared with the structure of modern western trousers,with the method of literature and specimen research to sum up its internal and external structure factors.The paper explained the function and frugality of Chinese traditional trousers in plane cutting,its sigificance lied in that there were literature and practical value for exploring the structue of the traditional trousers of China.

关 键 词：传统裤装 结构 功用 节俭 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]