服装模板工序的动作编码  

Action coding for operation process of garment template

作　　者：杜劲松[1,2] 郑梦林 戴玉芳 李依璇 DU Jinsong;ZHENG Menglin;DAI Yufang;LI Yixuan(Fashion and Design College,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051

出　　处：《纺织学报》2018年第9期109-114,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：上海市设计学Ⅳ类高峰学科资助项目(DD17002)

摘　　要：为提升服装模板缝制工序的工时计算准确率,通过对模板缝制动作分类,为一般车缝时间软件(GST)研发了19个模板缝制动作编码。总结了模板缝制工艺中12个自动模板和7个手动模板的标准动作,运用模特排时法对动作进行动素分解,并计算出动作的时间值;根据一般车缝时间软件的编码规则对19个动作进行代码编制;通过模特排时法时间值与一般车缝时间值的转化,得出新增动作的标准时间值。最后通过GST系统新旧2种编码计算结果与实测工时的对比表明,新增模板编码的计算准确率达到90%以上,说明新增编码可更加准确地计算模板缝制工序的工时。In order to improve the accuracy of calculating the working hours of the garment template sewing process,by the classification study on the sewing actions of the template,19 template sewing action codes were developed for the general sewing time(GST)software.Firstly,this paper summarized the standard actions of 12 automatic templates and 7 manual templates during the template sewing process.The modapts time process was used to decompose action elements,the time value of those actions were calculated.Secondly,19 actions were coded according to the code rules of the general sewing time software.Finally,modapts time value was transformed into general sewing time value to obtain the standard time value of the new actions.By the comparison experiments between new and old codes calculating results of GST system and the real measured times,the results show that the calculation accuracy of using new template coding is more than 90%.It is shown that the new codes can more accurately calculate the working hours of the template sewing process.

关 键 词：标准工时 服装模板 模特排时法 一般车缝时间 

分 类 号：TS941.63[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]