基于半遮盖结构的数码提花织物创新设计  

Innovative design on digital jacquard fabric based on half-covered structure

作　　者：张萌 周赳[1] 柳洁渊[1] ZHANG Meng;ZHOU Jiu;LIU Jieyuan(Silk Institute,College of Materials and Textiles,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院丝绸学院,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2018年第9期68-73,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(15BH115);文化部重点实验室资助项目(2017016);浙江文化研究工程课题项目(17WH20017-1Z)

摘　　要：针对分层组合设计模式下半遮盖结构中并列纬纱相互之间同时存在遮盖和不遮盖两种关系的结构特点,提出数码提花织物设计中半遮盖结构的应用方法,通过分析其并列纱线相互之间不同的遮盖和显色关系,研究纬线组数变化时的提花面料设计织造解决方案、单彩灰度层顺序和纬纱排列次序对面料色彩的影响,以及在半遮盖提花面料变化设计中的织造途径。并通过实例表明:半遮盖结构表面独特的纬纱显色特点可使数码提花织物表面颜色效果更加丰富,其中合适的调整单彩灰度层和纬纱次序设计半遮盖效果提花织物,可在织造技术参数不变的前提下获得格子等创新设计的织物表面效果。The structural characteristics of covered and non-covered exist among juxtaposed yarns in half-covered structure and under layered combination design mode.Based on the above,application method of half-covered structure in digital jacquard design was presented.By analyzing different covering and coloration relationships among juxtaposed yarns,this paper exhibited digital jacquard fabric design solution with different wefts,influence of single color gray layer order and weft order on fabric color,and weave method in half-covered jacquard fabric change design.The design practices have proven that the unique weft coloration characteristics of half-covered structure can make the surface color of digital jacquard fabric more abundant.Besides,appropriate adjustment of single color gray layer order and weft order for design of half-covered jacquard weave can gain innovative fabric effect like grid design under the precondition of keeping parameters of weaving technology unchanged.

关 键 词：织物设计 数码提花 组合半遮盖组织 组合结构 遮盖关系 

分 类 号：TS105.11[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]