近代中原地区大襟形制服装门襟结构研究  

Research on the structure of plaid clothing placket in modern central plains

作　　者：朱贝贝[1] 李晓鲁[1] ZHU Beibei;LI Xiaolu(Fashion Department,Zhongyuan University of Technology,Zhengzhou 450007,China)

机构地区：[1]中原工学院服装学院,郑州450007

出　　处：《丝绸》2018年第9期74-80,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：河南省哲学社会科学规划项目(2015BYS016)

摘　　要：为深入研究近代中原地区大襟形制服装门襟的设计和制成原理,文章通过对中原工学院服饰文化中心馆藏服装实物的观察、测量、数据分析和结构复原,总结出大襟形制服装门襟的结构特征。研究表明:门襟是集服装闭合功能、衣缘毛边装饰和结构裁剪方式于一体的综合性设计;门襟独裁、门襟与左衣身连裁和门襟与前后片连裁三种结构设计方法,是产生"找袖"形制、"无找袖"形制、宽接袖、窄接袖结构的主要原因,也是造成里襟部分拼接、宽度不一结构的主要因素。因此,研究对于传统中式服装文化体系的丰富、完善及在当代中式服装的设计和制作中都具有重要的意义。In order to further study the design and making principles of the plaid clothing placket in the Central Plains in the modern China,the structural features of the placket with a large lapel shape were summarized through the observation,measurement,data analysis and structural restoration of the clothing collected in the Clothing Culture Center of Central China Institute of Technology.The research shows that the placket is a comprehensive design which integrates functions,decoration and structure.The three structure design methods(separate cutting of plaid,continuous cutting of the placket and the left body,and continuous cutting of the front and rear pieces)are the main reasons for generating“looking for the sleeves”shape and“no sleeve”shape,wide sleeves,the main reason narrow sleeves.Besides,they are also the main factors causing under fly joint and inconsistent width.Therefore,this study is of great significance to the enrichment and perfection of the traditional Chinese clothing culture system and to the design and production of contemporary Chinese clothing.

关 键 词：近代 中原地区 馆藏 大襟形制 门襟 结构研究 

分 类 号：TS941.498.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]