细特纬剪花织物的设计与生产  

Design and Production of Super Fine Weft Cutting Motif Fabric

作　　者：尹桂波 佟昀 王平平 YIN Guibo;TONG Jun;WANG Pingping(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Jiangsu Nantong,226007;Nantong Tongzhou Desheng Textiles Co.,Ltd.,Jiangsu Nantong,226007)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院,江苏南通226007 [2]南通通州区德胜纺织品公司,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2018年第10期36-39,共4页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：江苏高校品牌专业建设工程(PPZY2015A093);江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心项目(苏政发2014[22]号);江苏高校优秀中青年教师境外研修项目(苏教2012[6]号);南通市新型纤维材料重点实验室项目资助(CP12014003)

摘　　要：总结一款纬剪花织物的设计与生产关键技术。介绍了织物规格设计,包括幅宽、经纬纱组合、织物紧度、经纬密等;对具体的纹样设计、劈花方法进行了阐述;实际生产中,保证整经片纱张力均匀,增加浆纱毛羽被覆率,采用反织法织造,调节花纬引纬张力,采用剪毛机剪花等;最终使织机效率达93%,入库一等品率达97%。认为:设计的织物外观新颖,适宜作时尚女装面料。The design and production key technology of a kind of weft cutting motif fabric were summarized.The fabric specification design including width,warp&weft combination,fabric tightness,fabric warp&weft density and so on were introduced.The specific dermatoglyphic pattern design and cutting motif method were explained.In practical production,consist warping tension was guaranteed,the covering rate for the hairiness of sized yarn was increased.Reverse weaving was adopted.The insertion tension of colored weft was adjusted.Cropping machine was used for motif cutting.Eventually,the loom efficiency was reached up to 93%and the first grade percentage put in storage was reached up to 97%.It is considered that the appearance of designed fabric is novel and the fabric is suitable for fashion women swear fabric.

关 键 词：纬剪花织物 织物紧度 纹样设计 络筒速度 整经张力 

分 类 号：TS106.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]