温度对丝绸面料粘衬热缩率的影响  

Influences of temperatures on heat shrinkage rate of silk fusible interlining

作　　者：武英敏[1] 陆鑫[1] WU Yingmin;LU Xin(School of Clothing and Textile,Eastern Liaoning University,Dandong 118003,China)

机构地区：[1]辽东学院服装与纺织学院,辽宁丹东118003

出　　处：《丝绸》2018年第10期41-47,共7页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：掌握丝绸面料遇热后的尺寸变化情况可以提高丝绸服装的质量。将塔夫绸和乔其纱两种丝绸面料在相同温度的不同时刻及不同温度条件下分别进行未粘衬及粘衬处理,测试不同条件下的丝绸面料的经、纬向热缩率,并对测试结果进行分析。得出面料和衬料的品种、粘衬温度、粘衬后的冷却时间都会对丝绸面料的热缩率产生影响。因此制作丝绸面料服装时,在服装的领子、门襟、袖头等主要用衬部位,要增加适当的放松量,从而保证成品服装尺寸规格的准确性,并为下一步的科研奠定基础。Mastering the size changes of silk fabrics after heating can improve the quality of silk garments.Two kinds of silk fabrics(taffeta and georgette)were treated with non stick lining and lining under different temperatures and equal temperatures in the different time.The warp and weft shrinkage rate of silk fabrics under different conditions was tested,and the test result was analyzed.The conclusion is drawn:the variety of fabric and lining,lining temperature,cooling time after the lining would have an impact on the heat shrinkage rate of silk fabrics.Therefore,the appropriate margin should increase during the production of silk fabric clothing in the parts such as collar,front fly and sleeve cap so as to ensure the accuracy of the size of the finished garment and lay a foundation for scientific research.

关 键 词：真丝面料 粘衬 热缩率 温度 冷却时间 

分 类 号：TS141.914[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]