“杭州织造”乾隆八旗棉甲的规制与成造  

The regulation and formation for the “Eight Banners” padded armors made by Hangzhou Official Silk Factory during Qianlong period

作　　者：郑宇婷 刘瑞璞[1] ZHENG Yuting;LIU Ruipu(School of Clothing Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《丝绸》2018年第10期73-77,共5页Journal of Silk

基　　金：北京服装学院博士项目(NHFZ20170079)

摘　　要：八旗棉甲为清代戎服的一个重要分支,文献对其规制有所记述,但有史无据,缺少对标本和文献相互印证的依据。文章通过对乾隆八旗棉甲标本进行系统信息采集,发现其全部为"杭州织造"所制,故以此为线索结合文献研究等手段,从其规制、成造历史与成造材质等方面完整还原八旗棉甲的真实面貌。它的繁荣是中国古代军戎服饰与丝绸文化的完美结合,标志着乾隆盛世生产力水平的高峰和阅甲清承汉制的集大成,但同时其繁冗浮夸也见证了大清王朝由盛转衰的历史命运。The“Eight Banners”padded armor is an important branch of military uniform in the Qing dynasty.The literature has descriptions of its regulation and formation,but there is lack of evidence on mutual corroboration between specimens and literature.In this paper,through collecting information on the specimen,it was found that they were all made by“Hangzhou Official Silk Factory”.According to this clue,literature research was combined to restore the real look of the“Eight Banners”padded armor by its making history,regulation,material and so on.Its prosperity is a perfect combination of military costume and silk culture in ancient China.It symbols the peak of productivity level during Qianlong flourishing period and it epitomizes that military uniform in the Qing dynasty inherited from Ming dynasty.But at the same time the exaggerated padded armor also witnessed the historical fate of prosperity and decline of the Qing dynasty.

关 键 词：棉甲 规制与成造 杭州织造 乾隆盛世 清承汉制 

分 类 号：TS941.742.49[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]