苏州非物质文化遗产丝绸罗的保护与传承现状分析  

Analysis on protection and inheritance status of intangible cultural heritage silk leno in Suzhou

作　　者：牛建涛[1,2] 胡绮 黄紫娟 张小英[1] NIU Jiantao;HU Qi;HUANG Zijuan;ZHANG Xiaoying(School of Textile and Clothing and Arts and Media,Suzhou Institute of Trade and Commerce,Suzhou 215009,China;Silk Institute,College of Materials and Textiles,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;College of Humanities,Suzhou University of Science and Technology,Suzhou 215009,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州经贸职业技术学院纺织服装与艺术传媒学院,江苏苏州215009 [2]浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院丝绸学院,杭州310018 [3]苏州科技大学人文学院,江苏苏州215009

出　　处：《丝绸》2018年第10期78-82,共5页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学青年基金项目(15YJC850009);江苏省教育科学"十三五"规划重点资助项目(C-a/2016/03/01)

摘　　要：苏州作为中国传统丝绸业中的重要生产基地之一,拥有众多的丝绸品种,尤其罗织物的织造技艺也在当地得到了较好地传承与发展。通过实地调研和人物访谈,对苏州丝绸罗的传承人及其丝绸企业的现状、织造技艺的传承与发展进行了分析,概述了丝绸罗产品的开发与应用;经过实证分析与研究,指出丝绸罗在保护与传承中存在着传承人老龄化、织造工艺效率低成本高、产品在国内几乎没有消费市场等问题;最后针对这些困境,从高校传承、创新设计、技艺革新等方面提出了苏州非物质文化遗产丝绸罗的保护与传承策略。As one of the important production bases of the Chinese traditional silk,Suzhou has varieties of silk,and especially the weaving skills of Leno fabrics gain better heritage and development there.Through the field investigation and interview,the inheritors of silk leno,the current situation of the silk enterprises in Suzhou,inheritance and development of weaving skills were analyzed.Besides,the development and application of silk leno products were summarized.According to the empirical analysis and research,it pointed out that there were many problems in the protection and inheritance of silk leno,such as the aging of inheritors,the low efficiency and high cost of the weaving process and no consumption market in China.Finally,to solve these difficulties,the protection and inheritance strategy of intangible cultural heritage silk leno in Suzhou were put forward from several aspects such as the university inheritance,innovative design and technical innovation.

关 键 词：罗 非物质文化遗产 传承 丝绸 保护 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]