毛纺段彩竹节纱的工艺设计及产品开发  

Process Design and Product Development of Wool Segment-Color Slub Yarn

作　　者：韩晨晨 陈丽芬[2] 高卫东[1] 刘丽艳[2] 查神爱 HAN Chenchen;CHEN Lifen;GAO Weidong;LIU Liyan;ZHA Shenai(Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Jiangsu Sunshine Group,Jiangyin 214426,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室,江苏无锡214122 [2]江苏阳光集团,江苏江阴214426

出　　处：《服装学报》2018年第5期377-381,共5页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309200);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目(JUSRP11801);江苏省博士后科研资助计划项目(2018K019A);江苏高校品牌专业建设工程资助项目(PPZY2015B147);江苏高校优势学科建设工程资助项目([2014]37号)

摘　　要：针对毛纺段彩竹节纱线品种适纺性的问题,以m(8. 83 tex澳洲羊毛)∶m(2. 22 dtex涤纶)=3∶1的混纺粗纱为主纱,m(1. 67 dtex粘胶短纤)∶m(1. 67 dtex阳离子碱性涤纶短纤)=1∶1的混纺粗纱为辅纱,对半精纺细纱机DTM129进行智能化改造,利用CCZ-VII伺服系统花式纱装置分别控制细纱机中、后罗拉的运转速度,实现半精纺毛纺纱线竹节和段彩的花式效果。基于该生产装置,通过优化设计纱线平均纱支、基纱纱支、捻度、竹节倍率、节长、节距以及段彩长度等规格参数,使毛纺段彩竹节花式纱的品种增多,布面风格多样化。In order to solve the problem of suitable spinnability of wool segment-color slub yarn,the main yarn is blended as m(Australian wool of 8.83 tex)∶m(polyester of 2.22 dtex)=3∶1,and the auxiliary yarn is blended as m(viscose of 1.67 dtex)∶m(cationic alkaline polyester of 1.67 dtex)=1∶1.The semi-worsted spinning machine DTM129 is intelligently transformed and CCZ-VII fancy yarn production device controlled by servo system is installed.The spinning speeds of the middle and rear rollers of the spinning frame can be separately controlled to achieve the fancy effect of the wool semi-worsted segment-color slub yarn.Based on this production device,the variety of segment-color slub yarn could be enriched and the cloth could present the style of diversification,by optimizing the design of average yarn count,basic yarn count,yarn twist,slub length,slub pitch and segment-color length,etc.

关 键 词：半精毛纺纱 段彩竹节纱 花式纱装置 工艺设计 产品开发 

分 类 号：TS106.41[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] TS131.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]