改革开放前中国女性着装中性化的影响因素  

Effecting Factors of Chinese Women's Genderless Dress before Reform and Opening up

作　　者：张玲 ZHANG Ling(International Center for Chinese Studies,Aichi University,Nagoya 461-8641,Japan)

机构地区：[1]日本爱知大学国际中国研究中心

出　　处：《服装学报》2018年第5期438-444,共7页Journal of Clothing Research

摘　　要：改革开放前,中国女性在形象上最大的特征就是着装中性化。这些中性着装被认为是对女性性的否定。在对当时女性着装中性化历史进行详细回顾与分析的基础上,对目前看似已成定论的"政治与国家意识形态主导说"予以考证,指出改革开放前中国女性在中性着装上经历了一个渐变的过程。在早期,女性对于中性服装的选择基本属于个人意愿,政治因素只是在中后期才开始发生重要作用,因此不能一概将之归因于"政治与国家意识主导"。Most Chinese women wore the Lenin coat,Mao suits or Army surplus clothes only before 1970s.These clothes were thought of the negation of women.This paper summarized and analyzed the history of women's genderless dress during that period in detail.The accepted opinion that it was the result of politics and national ideology,was then argued.It was pointed that Chinese women's genderless dress before 1970s was a gradual process.In the earlier period,the choice for dress was almost a personal willingness.Political factors only affected the choice in the later period.Therefore,it was unreasonable to think it was only caused by the political force and national ideology.

关 键 词：改革开放前 女性着装 中性化 成因机制 列宁装 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]