织物产生横档的原因及控制方法  

The reasons and control methods of fabric cross bar

作　　者：魏艳红 苏旭中[1] 刘新金 谢春萍[1] 张钟唏 WEI Yanhong;SU Xuzhong;LIU Xinjin;XIE Chunping;ZHANG Zhongxi(Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Nantong Textile Holding Group Textile Dyeing Limited Company,Nantong 226007,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室,江苏无锡214122 [2]南通纺织控股集团纺织染有限公司,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《丝绸》2018年第11期24-30,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划项目(SJCX180-0623);江苏省科技副总项目(FZ20180497);国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309200);江苏省自然科学基金项目(BK20170169);新疆维吾尔自治区重点研发专项(2017B02011)

摘　　要：横档是布面常见的一种疵点,产生横档的原因多样。文章列举了常见的产生横档的具体实例,如条干不匀、捻不匀、重量偏差大、混配与接替控制不当产生的黄白纱、针织张力不匀等,提供了可靠的事实依据。介绍了分析横档的方法,手感目测法、仪器分析法、溶解法、拆布分析法。先进测试仪器可以快速分析产生横档的原因,同时也可以有效预防横档的产生,力求帮助企业最大限度减少织物横档疵布,降低浪费及经济损失。研究认为:织物产生横档与原料的选配、纱线质量、织造、操作管理等因素有关,企业应根据具体的原因采取有效措施。Cross bar is a common fabric defect,and would be produced by a variety of reasons.In this paper,the common examples of producing cross bar were listed,such as unevenness,uneven twist,large weight deviation,yellowish white yarn caused by improper mixing and replacement control,and uneven knitting tension,and the reliable factual basis was provided.Then,methods of analyzing the cross bar were introduced,including visual observation method,instrumental analysis,dissolution method,and unwrapping analysis method.The use of advanced test equipment can not just quickly analyze the cause of the cross bar,but also can effectively prevent the emergence of cross bar,striving to help companies minimize fabric cross bar and reduce waste and economic losses.The results show that the production of fabric cross bar has the relations with the selection of raw materials,yarn quality,weaving,operation management and other factors,and enterprises should take effective measures according to specific reasons.

关 键 词：横档 条干 捻度 纱线重量 针织 织物疵点 

分 类 号：TS101.914[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]