局部经纬起花织物的改进设计  

Improved Design of Partial Warp and Weft Velludo Fabric

作　　者：刘艳[1] 钱飞[1] 高小亮[1] LIU Yan;QIAN Fei;GAO Xiaoliang(Yancheng Institute of Industry Technology,Jiangsu Yancheng,224005)

机构地区：[1]盐城工业职业技术学院,江苏盐城224005

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2018年第11期49-51,共3页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：2016年江苏省高校优秀中青年教师和校长境外研修项目;江苏高校品牌专业建设工程资助项目TAPP(PPZY2015C254);2016年中国纺织工业联合会指导项目(2016036)

摘　　要：总结局部经纬起花织物的改进设计方法。从纹样设计、组织设计、织物CAD软件模拟效果、小样试织等方面介绍了一款局部经纬起花织物的设计过程。针对其存在的问题,通过改变每筘穿入数,经、纬纱的颜色与排列及经、纬浮长线的长度,实现织物花纹与风格的改善。结果表明:每筘3入时织物更厚实,纹路效果更好;底部组织设计为条格或配色模纹,可以有效地增加布面的层次感。认为:可以根据最终织物风格要求采取不同的设计方案。Improved design method of partial warp and weft velludo were summarized.The design process of one partial warp and weft velludo was introduced from the aspects of pattern design,texture design,fabric CAD software simulation effect and sample weaving.Aiming at existing problems,the fabric pattern and style were improved by changing ends per dent,the color and arrangement of warp and weft,the length of the warp and weft float yarns.The results showed that the fabric was thicker and the pattern effect was better when the ends per dent was three.Bottom structure was designed as a strip or color matching pattern which can effectively increase the layering of the cloth surface.It is considered that different designs can be adopted according to the final fabric style requirements.

关 键 词：经起花织物 纹样设计 织物组织 钢筘 地组织 色经排列 

分 类 号：TS106.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]