双面双层结构提花织物的表里换层设计与实践  

Layer-exchanging design and practice of double-face two-layer jacquard fabric

作　　者：张萌[1] 周赳[1] ZHANG Meng;ZHOU Jiu(Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou,Zhejiang31001)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《纺织学报》2018年第12期41-46,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：中国纺织工业联合会应用基础研究项目(J201802);文化部重点实验室资助项目(2017016);浙江文化研究工程课题(17WH20017-1Z)

摘　　要：针对传统双面提花织物双层结构的表层结构和里层结构互换设计单一的问题,通过对基于分层组合设计模式的双面双层提花织物的结构特点进行分析,提出双面双层提花织物的表里换层结构设计新方法。将双层结构中的表里层结构、表里层纱线和表里层图案进行有效分离,通过三者重新组合的方式实现双面双层提花织物的创新设计。表里换层在双面提花织物设计中的应用可分为基本设计和变化设计二类。设计实践表明,提出的表里换层设计新方法可在相关设计参数不变的前提下,使双面双层提花织物的结构、表面图案和色彩呈现新效果,为该类织物设计提供了新的思路和方法。For the interchanging design single problem of the surface structure and the inner structure in double-face jacquard fabric with a two-layer structure,a new layer-exchanging design method was presented by analyzing double-face and two-layer jacquard fabric structure features based on layered-combination design mode.Innovative effect of double-face and two-layer jacquard fabric was realized by separating and recombining structures,yarns and patterns from surface and inner layers.And the application of layer-exchanging in the double-face jacquard fabric was divided into basic design and shifty design.The design practices show that the new layer-exchanging design method presented can realize innovative structuring,coloring and patterning effect on face and back sides of double-face jacquard fabric with related process parameters unchanged,providing a new design idea and way for the innovative design of double-face two-layer jacquard fabrics.

关 键 词：数码提花 双面织物 双层结构 表里换层 分层组合设计模式 

分 类 号：TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] TS105.1