针织西服面料设计及其性能  

Design and performance of knitted suit fabrics

作　　者：李新彤 丛洪莲 LI Xintong;CONG Honglian(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2018年第12期47-52,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：江苏省自然科学基金项目(BK20151129);江苏省产学研联合创新资金-前瞻性联合研究项目(BY2016022-42)

摘　　要：为改善机织西服缺乏弹性、穿着舒适度不理想的问题,提升西服面料的服用性能,更好地将针织西服面料应用于市场,根据西服面料的应用,对针织西服面料进行设计开发并测试研究其相关性能。结果表明:针织西服面料中棉纤维含量较多时,透气率可提高70～210 mm/s;棉型西服面料透湿量比毛型西服高300～400 g/(m^2·d),折皱回复角度高5°左右,回弹性能较为优异;根据不同原料的西服面料的优势特点,结合其服用性能,可广泛将面料运用至季节性商务服饰的开发;研究开发的针织西服面料具有良好的服用性能和优势。In order to solve the lack of flexibility of the woven suits and unsatisfactory wearing comfort,and improve the wearing performance of the suit fabrics in well apply the knitted suit fabrics in the market,the application of the suit fabrics were deeply researched,and the design and development of the knitted fabrics and related performance testing were investigated.The results show that cotton fiber content is high,and the air permeability is higher than 70-210 mm/s.As far as moisture permeability is concerned,the cotton suit fabric is 300-400 g/(m 2·d)higher than that of the wool suit fabric.The wrinkle recovery angle of the cotton-type suit fabric is about 5°higher than that of the wool-style suit fabric,and the rebound resilience is superior.According to the different advantages of different materials of the suit fabrics,combining with its wear performance,the fabric can be widely used as seasonal business apparel.The researched and developed knitted suit fabrics has better performance and advantages.

关 键 词：高密度 针织西服面料 面料设计 织物性能 

分 类 号：TS186.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]