影响新原型袖子结构的相关因素分析  

Analysis of Related Factors Influencing New Prototype Sleeve Structure

作　　者：谢勇 

机构地区：[1]五邑大学艺术设计学院

出　　处：《纺织导报》2019年第1期89-92,共4页China Textile Leader

基　　金：广东省青年创新人才项目(2017KQNCX202);五邑大学青年科研基金项目(2016sk05)

摘　　要：文章以日本文化女上装新原型为工具,通过制作样衣、构建理论模型来分析影响新原型袖子的因素。研究发现,对于不同净胸围大小的体型,在同等服装造型的前提下,配袖的因素因体型而异;在调整肩斜时对配袖因素的影响不大,主要的影响因素是绱袖角度,绱袖角度与袖山倾斜角呈近线性变化。不同造型的袖子所对应的配袖因素截然不同,因此在配袖的结构设计中,针对不同造型的服装,绱袖角度的设计尤为重要。In this paper,the related factors influencing the sleeve of the new prototype are analyzed by making samples and constructing theoretical models.According to the research,the factors of sleeve matching vary with the body size.When the shoulder slant is adjusted,the effect on the sleeve fitting factor is not significant,and the main influencing factor is the angle of the sleeve.In the structural design of sleeve fitting,the angle between the angle and the inclination angle of sleeve fitting was nearly linear.The corresponding factors of sleeve fitting in different styles were quite different.

关 键 词：新原型 袖子结构 袖山高 袖肥 绱袖角度 

分 类 号：TS941.61[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]