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作 者:徐传奇 朱聪聪 杨竹丽 XU Chuanqi;ZHU Congcong;YANG Zhuli(College of Textiles and Apparel, Quanzhou Normal University, Quanzhou, Fujian 362000, China;College of Textile and Clothing Engineering, Soochow University, Suzhou, Jiangsu 215123, China)
机构地区:[1]泉州师范学院纺织与服装学院,福建泉州362000 [2]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州215123
出 处:《毛纺科技》2019年第1期30-34,共5页Wool Textile Journal
摘 要:采用KES风格仪对几种新型羊毛精纺面料进行测试,通过对面料折皱回复性能和基本力学性能测试分析发现,对于抗皱面料,由于采用强捻纱,织物表面比较光洁,摩擦因数较低;织物面密度和经纬密度较低,比较轻薄,弯曲刚度较低;采用平纹组织,织物的剪切刚度较高,剪切滞后量较小,因而抵抗剪切变形的能力强,容易回复,具有较好的压缩回弹性,因此,该抗皱面料具有较好的抗皱性能。对于对照面料,由于采用斜纹组织,经纬纱线之间相对滑移容易,因此急弹性回复角略高于抗皱面料,但缓弹性回复角略低于抗皱面料。对于暖感面料,由于经过特殊后整理工艺,其具有手感温和,压缩比功较高,压缩功回复率较低的特点,且布面丰满,不光滑,所以表面摩擦因数较大。对于冷感面料,由于进行了抗紫外线整理,因此织物表面的摩擦因数较高、表面粗糙。通过比对为织造适合不同需求的羊毛面料提供参考。Wrinkle recovery rate and basic mechanical properties of several novel wool worsted fabrics were tested and analyzed with KES.Because of strong twisted yarn adopted,wrinkle recovery fabric has a clean surface and low friction coefficient.Secondly,due to the lower weight per square meter and warp/weft density,the fabric is thinner and bending rigidity of wrinkle recovery fabric is lower.Thirdly,by using the plain weave,wrinkle recovery fabric has a high shearing rigidity and smaller shearing lag,which brings the fabric with good shear deformation resistivity and recover.Besides,wrinkle recovery fabric has better compression resilience.As a result,the fabric has good anti-crease property.The immediate elastic recovery angle of contrast fabric is better than that of anti-crease fabric,because twill weave was used in this fabric and it is easily for yarns to slip.However,delayed elastic recovery angle of contrast fabric is lower than that of anti-crease fabric.Because of special finishing process,warm feeling fabric has a higher thickness,higher compression ratio work,lower compression work recovery rate;its surface is full,so the surface friction coefficient is larger and its surface is not smooth.Therefore,this fabric has a warm feeling and has the same name.After anti-ultraviolet radiation finish,the friction coefficient of cold feeling fabric is higher which indicates a rough surface.
分 类 号:TS106.81[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]
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