非洲加纳肯特布的手工制作及文化特征  

Handmade and Cultural Features of Kente Cloth

作　　者：田悦[1] 王宏付[1] TIAN Yue;WANG Hongfu(School of Textile and Clothing,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《服装学报》2019年第1期73-77,84,共6页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：教育部人文社科基金项目(09YJA760013);江苏省2014年度普通高校研究生科研创新计划项目(KJ22-0316);江苏高校优势学科建设工程资助项目(苏政办发[2014]37号)

摘　　要：肯特布是西非的非物质文化遗产,也是世界上最复杂的织物之一,其色彩绚丽、图案丰富,具有非洲文化独特的原始张力之美。以实物分析为基础,结合文献查阅和归纳总结的研究方法,概述肯特布的历史起源、分类及其纺线、染色、整经、织造等手工制作过程,并在此基础上进一步分析肯特布深层次的文化特征。研究发现:肯特布为西非加纳特有的纺织品,织造传统由来已久,由当地男性纯手工织造,色彩鲜艳绚丽、图案纹样丰富且深受民族区域文化及宗教信仰的影响,民族特色鲜明,具有文化传承的特殊功能。Kent cloth is the intangible cultural heritage of West Africa and one of the most complex fabrics in the world,it is famous for its bright color and rich patterns,which have the beauty of the original tension of African culture.Based on the physical analysis,this paper uses literature review and summarization to concludes Kent cloth historical origin,classification and manual production process of spinning,dyeing,warping,weaving,etc.On this basis,its deep-rooted cultural characteristics are furtherly analyzed.The study finds that the Kente cloth is a unique textile of Ghana in west Africa having a long history,which is purely hand-made by the local men and has colorful and rich patterns.Moreover,Kente cloth is deeply affected by religious culture,and it has distinctive national characteristics as well as the special function of cultural inheritance.

关 键 词：非洲 肯特布 历史起源 手工制作 文化特征 

分 类 号：TS941.61[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]