云贵粤地区少数民族合裆裤的多元化构成  

Study on diversified structures of minority crotch pants in areas of Yunnan, Guizhou & Guangdong

作　　者：谢勇 吴秋英 江汝南 戚雨节 XIE Yong;WU Qiuying;JIANG Ru’nan;QI Yujie(College of Art and Design,Wuyi University,Jiangmen 529020,China)

机构地区：[1]五邑大学艺术设计学院,广东江门529020

出　　处：《丝绸》2019年第3期78-83,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部人文社科青年项目(17YJC760026);广东省青年创新人才项目(2017KQNCX202);五邑大学青年科研基金项目(2016sk05);广东省哲学社会科学一般项目(GD16CYS02)

摘　　要：合裆裤源于北方游牧民族,后流行于黄河流域南北各族,南方少数民族在继承传统合裆裤基本特征的同时,其形制特征发展不拘一格。文章以云南红河地区的彝族及哈尼族、贵州荔波地区的白裤瑶族、广东连南地区的瑶族传统合裆裤为主要研究对象,通过田野考察及文献研究,对其形制和结构进行分类归纳,研究表明:云贵粤地区的少数民族传统合裆裤具有多元化形制与结构特征,且不同少数民族传统合裆裤的裆部构成形式各异。文章根据所研究地区的少数民族传统合裆裤不同的裆部构成形式,将其少数民族传统合裆裤归纳为补裆结构、扭裆结构、立体拼裆结构三种。The crotch pants originated from nomadic peoples in the north, and later became popular in the Yellow River basin. While inheriting the characteristics of the traditional crotch pants, the minorities in the south have developed freely. Based on the field investigation and literature study, this paper classified and summarized the shape and structure of traditional crotch pants of Yi and Hani ethnic groups in Honghe area of Yunnan province, the Baiku Yao ethnic group in Libo area of Guizhou province and the Yao ethnic group in Liannan area of Guangdong province. The results show that the traditional crotch pants of ethnic minorities in Yunnan, Guizhou and Guangdong have the characteristics of diversified shapes and structures, and the crotch structure forms of traditional crotch pants are diverse for different ethnic minorities. According to the different crotch forms of the traditional crotch pants in the study area, the traditional crotch pants can be divided into three types: patching crotch structure, twisting crotch structure, and three-dimensional crotch structure.

关 键 词：少数民族 合裆裤 补裆结构 扭裆结构 直线裁剪 

分 类 号：TS941.61[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]