民族服饰袖裆结构类型和文化探析  

Analysis on structure types and cultural characteristics of sleeve crotch of ethnic costume

作　　者：樊苗苗 FAN Miaomiao(College of Fashion Art and Engineering, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029, China;Anthropology Museumof Guangxi, Nanning 530028, China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029 [2]广西民族博物馆,南宁530028

出　　处：《丝绸》2019年第3期84-90,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：北京服装学院博士项目(NHFZ20180119);北京服装学院中国民族服饰文化工程项目(KYTG02170209);柒牌非物质文化遗产研究与保护基金一般项目(201705)

摘　　要：袖裆结构多出现于现代服装结构中,在民族服饰中的研究甚少。文章采用标本研究、比较研究的方法,从服装结构角度对民族服饰的袖裆结构进行分析。通过对博物馆馆藏民族服饰实物标本的数据采集、整理、结构图测绘,发现民族服饰袖裆结构存在"袖裆开口"到"独立插片"再到"衣身或袖身相融"三种不同形态类型。民族地区的地理环境和民族服装结构的变化衍生袖裆结构类型的多样性。少数民族纺织技术在布幅宽度上的相对稳定,是民族服饰袖裆结构不同形态保存至今的重要因素。多样性的民族服饰袖裆结构体现着中华民族的"敬物尚俭"思想。The sleeve crotch structure often appears in the modern clothing structure, but the research in the national dress is very less. In this paper, the methods of specimen research and comparative study were used to analyze the crotch structure of national costume from the angle of garment structure. By collecting, collating and mapping the samples of ethnic clothing collected in the museum, it is found that there are three kinds of different forms in the crotch structure of national costume, i.e.“crotch opening”,“independent insertion” and “body or sleeve body fusion”. The diversity of sleeve crotch structure derived from the variation of geographical environment and ethnic clothing structure in minority areas. The relative stability of textile technology of ethnic minorities in the width of cloth is an important factor for the preservation of the crotch structure of ethnic costume. The diversity of the crotch structure of national costume reflects the Chinese nation’s thought of “respecting things and saving things”.

关 键 词：民族服饰 袖裆结构 类型 插片 布幅 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]