高密柔软透气针织内衣面料的研发  

Research and development of high density soft and breathable knitted underwear fabrics

作　　者：王卫民 杨阳[2] 任海舟 张佩华[2] 顾维铀 Wang Weimin;Yang Yang;Ren Haizhou;Zhang Peihua;Gu Weiyou(Shanghai Threegun(Group) Co.,Ltd., Shanghai 200023,China;College of Textiles, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China)

机构地区：[1]上海三枪(集团)有限公司,上海200023 [2]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620

出　　处：《产业用纺织品》2019年第2期8-13,25,共7页Technical Textiles

基　　金：国家重点研发计划资助项目(2017YFB0309100);上海纺织集团创新项目(2016-ZX-11)

摘　　要：优选4.86 tex长绒棉纱线与2.22 tex氨纶长丝为原料,在高机号双面圆纬机上开发高密双罗纹纬编织物。介绍细针距低张力纬编技术及染整过程中烧毛、酶处理、染色、柔软拉幅定型和轧光整理等特殊的"五工艺"技术。测试和分析高密双罗纹纬编织物的抗起毛起球、顶破、弯曲、表面摩擦、透气、热湿舒适等性能。试验结果显示,高密双罗纹纬编织物具有手感滑爽柔软、弹性和延伸性佳、透气性较好及抗起毛起球性能优良等特点,适用于制作春夏季针织内衣产品,并得到了产业化推广和应用。4.68 tex long-staple cotton yarns and 2.22 tex spandex filaments were selected as raw materials to develop high density interlock fabric at the high gauge double knitting machine. The technology of low knitting tension with fine gauge, as well as the special “five-process” technologies such as singeing, enzyme treating, dyeing, soft stenter heat setting and calender treating during the dyeing and finishing processes, were introduced. The properties of anti-pilling, bursting, bending, surface friction, air permeability, thermal resistance and humidity resistance were tested and analyzed. The experimental results showed that the high density interlock fabric had the features including smooth and soft hand feel, good elasticity and extensibility, better air permeability and fine anti-pilling performance. The product was suitable to make knitted underwear products for spring and summer, and had been popularized and applied in the industry.

关 键 词：长绒棉纱线 氨纶长丝 高机号 高密 双罗纹 纬编织物 性能 

分 类 号：TS184[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]