丁香色素对真丝织物印花工艺的探讨  

Study on the printing process of silk with cloves pigment

作　　者：张茜茜 曹红梅[1,2] 吴燕萍[1] 朱亚伟[2] ZHANG Xixi;CAO Hongmei;WU Yanping;ZHU Yawei(Changzhou Vocational Institute of Textile and Garment, Changzhou213164, China;College of Textileand Clothing Engineering, Soochow University, Suzhou 215021, China)

机构地区：[1]常州纺织服装职业技术学院,江苏常州213164 [2]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州215021

出　　处：《染整技术》2019年第2期42-44,50,共4页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

基　　金：常州纺织服装职业学院科研项目(CFK201502)

摘　　要：探索了运用多羧酸对真丝预处理后再用天然染料丁香印花的方法。四种多羧酸对真丝预处理后,真丝的白度有变化,酒石酸和衣康酸预处理后的真丝白度有所提升;四种多羧酸预处理后,印花的表面得色量及色牢度均比直接印花高,衣康酸预处理后真丝的白度和印花得色量均较好。优化了衣康酸的预处理印花工艺,优化工艺为衣康酸质量浓度15 g/L、汽蒸温度105℃、汽蒸时间30 min。The method of pretreating silk with polycarboxylic acid and dyeing with natural dyes cloves was explored. After pretreatment with four kinds of polycarboxylic acids, the whiteness of silk changed, and the whiteness of silk pretreated with tartaric acid and itaconic acid increased. After pretreating with four kinds of polycarboxylic acid, the color yield and color fastness were higher than those of direct printing, itaconic acid pretreated silk could greatly improve whiteness and color yield of printing. The pretreatment printing process of itaconic acid was optimized.The optimum conditions for printing were as fellows: itaconic acid concentration 15 g/L,steam temperature 105 ℃, steam time 30 min.

关 键 词：天然染料 丁香 印花 真丝 多羧酸 

分 类 号：TS194.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]