布幅对汉文化圈传统女装造型的影响——以南宋墓葬出土汉族服装为例  

THE INFLUENCE OF FABRIC WIDTHS ON THE STYLE OF TRADITIONAL WOMEN'S WEAR IN HAN CULTURE CIRCLE——SUPPORTED BY THE EXCAVATED GARMENTS FROM THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL DISCOVERIES FROM SOUTHERN SONG DYNASTY

作　　者：周思施 赵明[1] ZHOU SISHI;ZHAO MING

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院

出　　处：《设计》2019年第8期100-102,共3页Design

摘　　要：为探索面料幅宽对汉文化圈传统女装造型的影响。以南宋墓葬出土汉族服装为主要研究对象,辅以和服、韩服这两类最具代表性的汉文化圈传统服饰形制作为补充论证,通过对服饰所用面料幅宽变化追根溯源的考据,结合考古报告中关于南宋墓葬出土服装实物测量数据进行的数理分析。得出汉文化圈内的传统女装,其裁剪均是建立在"幅"的基础上,通过匹料的定幅确定拼幅,使传统女装形制定型和衍变。研究面料幅宽对汉文化圈传统女装造型的影响,可为传统服饰文化传承与创新寻求新思路。To studying the influence of fabric widths on traditional women's wear in Han culture circle. This article takes the Han nationality costumes unearthed in the Southern Song Dynasty tombs as the main research object,supplemented by the traditional representative costumes of kimono and hanbok,which are the most representative forms of traditional clothing among Han culture,as the supplemental argument. Results are supported by the textual analysis of the fabric widths used in clothing,combined with archaeological studies. In the report,the mathematical analysis of the physical measurement data of the garments unearthed in the Southern Song Dynasty tombs shed light on the specific performance of the way that fabric width affects traditional women's wear among the Han culture circle. Analysis shows that the cutting style of traditional women’s costumes among the Han culture circle relies on the “width” of the fabric. Thus,traditional women's clothing is shaped and evolved based on the basis of determining the size of the clips. Studying the influence of fabric widths on traditional women's wear in Han culture circle helps to generate new ideas for the inheritance and innovation of traditional dress culture.

关 键 词：传统服饰 服装造型 南宋汉族服装 和服 韩服 幅宽 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]