立体折皱效果机织物的设计方法探讨  

Discussion on the Design Method of Woven Fabric with Three-Dimensional Wrinkle Effect

作　　者：李思 张红霞[1] 顾晨燚 祝成炎[1] LI Si;ZHANG Hongxia;GU Chenyi;ZHU Chengyan(National Engineering Lab for Textile Fiber Materials and Processing Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织纤维材料与加工技术国家地方联合工程实验室

出　　处：《现代纺织技术》2019年第4期33-37,共5页Advanced Textile Technology

摘　　要：采用提花工艺织造出具有立体折皱效果的机织物,从纱线、组织及折皱整理分析了机织物折皱效果形成原理,探讨了影响机织物折皱效果的因素。提出了采用重纬组织配合非弹性纱线与弹性纱线,根据不同图案区域内设计不同的组织织造具有立体折皱效果提花织物的方法。设计了折皱宽度变化为2.5、5、7.5、10mm的线型纹样,选择非弹性纱与弹性纱线比例为1∶1、2∶1和3∶1进行试样。通过对织物对比及定点起皱高度的测量数据分析,当非弹性纱与弹性纱线比例为1∶1或2∶1时,折皱宽度为7.5mm时,织物的折皱效果较好。The woven fabric with three-dimensional wrinkle effect was woven by jacquard process. The formation mechanism of wrinkle effect was analyzed from yarn, weave and wrinkle finishing. Besides, the factors influencing wrinkle effect were explored. The method was proposed to weave jacquard fabrics with three-dimensional wrinkle effect by designing different weaves in the different pattern regions and combining weft-weft yarns with non-elastic yarns and elastic yarns. The linear pattern with wrinkle width variation of 2.5, 5, 7.5 mm and 10 mm was designed, and the ratios of 1 ∶ 1, 2 ∶ 1 and 3 ∶ 1 (non-elastic yarns and elastic yarns) were chosen for sample weaving. Through the comparison of the fabric and the measured data of the fixed-point crease height, the fabric had the better wrinkle effect when the ratio of non-elastic yarn to elastic yarn was 1 ∶ 1 or 2 ∶ 1, and the crease width was 7.5 mm .

关 键 词：弹性纱线 重纬组织 折皱效果 立体面料 

分 类 号：TS105.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]