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作 者:李一 牟金莹[1,2,3] 骆艳 王来力 LI Yi;MOU Jinying;LUO Yan;WANG Laili(School of Fashion Design and Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China;Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of ClothingEngineering Technology, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China;Silk and Fashion Culture Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China;School of Fashion, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China)
机构地区:[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学浙江省服装工程技术研究中心,杭州310018 [3]浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,杭州310018 [4]东华大学服装学院,上海200051
出 处:《现代纺织技术》2019年第4期65-70,共6页Advanced Textile Technology
基 金:国家重点研发计划项目子课题(2018YFF0215703);教育部人文社科研究青年项目(19YJCZH092);浙江省自然学科基金一般项目(LY17G030035);浙江省大学生科技创新活动计划(2018R406018)
摘 要:研究基于化学品足迹理论,通过一件连衣裙生态毒性足迹的定量计算和评价,分析并识别了三道印染工序优先生态毒性足迹控制化学品以及优先生态毒性足迹控制工序,为纺织化学品的合理应用及管理提供可行性建议。根据不同量的化学品预测工艺链内有毒化学品,优先淘汰生态毒性足迹大的纺织化学品,寻找可替代化学品,实现可持续的化学品管理并可协助相关部门制定决策措施,进行全生命周期监测。结果表明,前处理、染色、印花三道工序的生态毒性足迹分别为1.43×10^-1PAF·m^3·day、1.62PAF·m^3·day、4.11PAF·m^3·day。染料、增稠剂、荧光增白剂、还原抑制剂的最终产物是生态毒性足迹较大的化学品。In order to provide feasible suggestions for the reasonable application and management of textile chemicals, the ecotoxicity footprint of a dress was quantitatively calculated and evaluated based on the theory of chemical footprint. Meanwhile, the priority control of chemicals and ecotoxicity in three dyeing and printing processes was analyzed and recognized. The hazardous chemicals in the process chain were predicted according to the amounts of chemicals. The textile chemicals with large ecotoxicity were eliminated preferentially. The alternative chemicals were sought to replace the textile chemicals. The sustainable chemical management was achieved, and relevant decisions and measures were made for full life circle monitoring to assist relevant departments. The results showed that ecotoxicity footprints of pretreatment, drying and printing processes were 1.43×10 -1 PAF·m 3·day, 1.62 PAF·m 3·day and 4.11 PAF·m 3·day, respectively. The final products of dye, thickener, fluorescer, reduction inhibitor were the chemicals with large ecotoxicity footprint.
分 类 号:TS10[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]
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