基于收针工艺的全成形毛衫分割线设计原理  

Design principle of secant line for whole garment sweater based on narrowing process

作　　者：李珂 吴志明 LI Ke;WU Zhiming(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心

出　　处：《纺织学报》2019年第6期85-90,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61772238);国家轻工技术与工程一流学科自主课题(2018-28)

摘　　要：为丰富全成形毛衫款式设计,以岛精公司MACH2XS15312G全成形四针床电脑横机为实验设备、结合SDS-ONE APEX 3设计系统,对全成形毛衫分割线设计原理进行研究。从叠针工艺、比率收针工艺、旋转工艺3种收针工艺探讨分割线成形原理,并以全成形长袖V领连衣裙为例,探讨全成形收针工艺形成分割线的具体应用。结果表明:叠针工艺适用于省道、褶裥的成形,形成直线分割;比率收针工艺用于袖窿编织,形成曲线分割;旋转工艺适用于前后尺寸差时的编织,形成曲线分割,同时采用筒编收针工艺解决了裁剪对针织线圈的破坏及缝合后接缝不平服的问题。In order to enrich the design of whole garment, the Shima seiki MACH2XS15312G four bed flat knitting machine was used as the experimental equipment, combined with the SDS-ONE APEX 3 design system to study the design principle of the whole garment dividing line. The principle of splitting line forming was discussed from three kinds of narrowing methods: the stitching process, the ratio-receiving process and the rotating process. The whole garment long-sleeve V-neck dress was taken as an example to discuss the application of the whole garment narrowing process to form the dividing line. The results show that the needle folding process is suitable for the forming of dart and pleating to form straight line segmentation. The ratio needle drawing process is used for armhole braiding to form curve segmentation, and the rotation technique is suitable for before and after size difference. At the same time, the problem of the damage of the knitting stitch and the unevenness of the seam after the stitching are solved by the barrel knitting process.

关 键 词：比率收针 叠针工艺 旋转工艺 分割线 设计原理 全成形毛衫 

分 类 号：TS941.64[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]