基于2019春夏秀场发布的外套式连衣裙流行款式分析  

Analysis of Fashion Style of Coat Dress Released by Spring/Summer Show in 2019

作　　者：孙方姣 李强 库茨米切夫·维克多 王丽 SUN Fangjiao;LI Qiang;VICTOR K;WANG Li(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;Editorial Department of Fashion Guide,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学《服饰导刊》编辑部,湖北武汉430073

出　　处：《服装学报》2019年第3期244-249,共6页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：湖北省服饰艺术与文化研究中心重点项目(2018HFG002)

摘　　要：外套式连衣裙是将外套的造型元素融入到连衣裙设计中,并形成多种款式风格的裙装,目前服装专业领域内对外套式连衣裙的概念描述模糊,对其名称和款式争议性很大。通过对外套式连衣裙进行全新的定义,并运用图片采集、筛选、分类、归纳等方法对2019春夏4大国际时装周秀场发布的外套式连衣裙款式进行分析,从结构、廓形、内部细节3个方面研究其款式特征。研究发现:服装款式是其造型的主要因素,款式的流行是推动外套式连衣裙流行性的重要因素;“等比例图片转换测量法”作为探索服装流行的科学研究方法已被实践证明;腰部无分割线、“H”型、裙底摆在膝盖线以上、平驳领、单排扣、嵌线袋、一片袖或两片袖的西装式外套连衣裙流行的可能性较大,有可能形成2019春夏外套式连衣裙款式的流行趋势。Coat dress is the dress that integrates the modelling element of coat into dress design to form a variety of styles.At present, the concept of coat dress in the professional field of clothing is vague, thus the name and style are very controversial.The article gives a brand-new definition to the coat dress,explores the coat dress styles released by the four major international fashion week shows in spring and summer 2019,use the methods of image collection, screening, classification and induction .The design features are analyzed from three aspects: structure, profile and internal details,The study found that style is the main factor of its shaping,the popularity of the style is the main aspect that promotes popularity of coat dress."The equal proportion image conversion measurement method" has been proved as a scientific research method to explore the popularity of clothing,it will fill the research vacancy in domestic related fieldin this aspect. Designs that removing the dividing line in waist,"H" shap, raising the skirt bottom above knee line , flat lapel, single breasted, thread pocket, one sleeve or two sleeve suit dress are more likely to be popular and become the fashion of coat dress.

关 键 词：外套式连衣裙 西装式外套连衣裙 服装流行研究方法 流行款式 

分 类 号：TS941.13[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]