两款仿宋锦织物的开发  

Development of Two Imitation Song Brocade Fabric

作　　者：曲海洋 眭建华[1] QU Haiyang;SUI Jianhua(Soochow University,Jiangsu Suzhou,215006)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2019年第7期51-54,共4页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：中国纺织工业联合会教学项目(中纺联函[2017]111号文);江苏高校品牌专业建设工程一期项目“纺织工程”(PPZY2015C257)

摘　　要：介绍宋锦的设计原理,并总结两款仿宋锦织物的开发要点。以二经三纬的宋锦织物为例分析了经、纬纱配置与交织关系,进而推导出了两种穿综方法,即先分区后分段穿综与先分段后分区穿综。以全纬显色渐变仿宋锦织物和对称小提花仿宋锦织物为例,介绍了各自的设计构思、规格、显色设计等,并进行了试织。结果表明:全纬显花渐变仿宋锦织物色彩变化丰富,富有层次;对称小提花仿宋锦织物纹地对比清晰。认为:开发仿宋锦织物应仔细考量穿综、引纬,以保证织物最终效果,从而更好地应用到市场。Design principle of Song brocade was introduced,development key points of two imitation Song brocade fabrics were summarized.Two warps and three wefts of Song brocade fabric was taken as an example,configuration and interweaving relationship between warp and weft were analyzed.Two drafting methods were derived,first partition,then segmentation and first segmentation then partition.Full weft color rendering gradient imitation Song brocade fabric and symmetrical mini-jacquard imitation Song brocade fabric were taken as examples,respective design concept,specification and color rendering design were introduced.Trial weaving was carried out.The results showed that full color rendering gradient imitation Song brocade fabric had rich color changes and layers,symmetrical mini-jacquard imitation Song brocade fabric had a clear contrast.It is considered that drafting and weft insertion of developing imitation Song brocade fabric should be carefully considered to ensure final effect of fabric,so as to be better applied in market.

关 键 词：宋锦 穿综设计 经纱 纬纱 纹板图 

分 类 号：TS106.842[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]