丝光羊毛针织面料的开发与性能研究  

Development and property research of mercerized wool knitted fabrics

作　　者：孟沙沙 杨启东 张佩华[1] Meng Shasha;Yang Qidong;Zhang Peihua(Key Laboratoo of TextiOe Science & Technology,Minis to of Education,Colleve of Textilee,Donghua University,Shangha 201620,China;Shanghai Challenge Textile Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201504,China)

机构地区：[1]纺织面料技术教育部重点实验室,东华大学纺织学院,上海201620 [2]上海嘉麟杰纺织品股份有限公司,上海201504

出　　处：《产业用纺织品》2019年第5期6-11,共6页Technical Textiles

基　　金：国家重点研发计划资助项目(2017YFB0309100)

摘　　要：选用丝光羊毛和异形截面凉感锦纶长丝作为原料,在双面圆纬机上设计制备了分别具有菱形网眼、横条网眼、两面网眼外观效应的3种集圈组织织物及3种双罗纹组织织物,给出了织物的织造工艺及染整工艺等,并对织物基本参数及其起毛起球性、透气性和吸湿速干性进行测试。结果表明,利用光羊毛结合异形截面凉感锦纶长丝设计制备的集圈组织织物具有较好的吸湿排汗性,其透气性和抗起毛起球性能也优于双罗纹组织织物,故适合夏季服装用针织面料的开发。With mercerized wool and profiled cross-section cool nylon filament used as raw materials,three kinds of tuck stitch fabrics with appearance effects of diamond mesh,horizontal mesh and two-sided mesh respectively,and three kinds of interlock stitch fabrics were designed and prepared on the double-sided circular weft machine.The weaving process and the dyeing and finishing process of the fabric were given.The fabrics basic parameters and such properties as pilling,gas permeability and moisture-absorption and quick drying were tested.The results showed that the tuck stitch fabrics prepared by using the mercerized wool combined with the profiled cross-section cool nylon filament had better moisture wicking properties,and their gas permeability and pilling resistance were also supperior to those of the interlock stitch fabrics,so they were suitable for developing knitted fabrics of summer clothing.

关 键 词：丝光羊毛 异形截面 凉感锦纶长丝 针织面料 性能 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]