纯棉提花织物的轧光整理  

Calendar finishing technology for jacquard cotton fabric

作　　者：张忠 徐华君 王力 陈万明 章金芳 ZHANG Zhong;XU Hua-jun;WANG Li;CHEN Wan-ming;ZHANG Jin-fang(Zhejiang Haoyu Technology Co.,Ltd.,Shangyu 312369,China;Institute ofProduct Quality Supervision and Inspection,Shangyu 312369,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江灏宇科技有限公司,浙江上虞312369 [2]绍兴市上虞区产品质量监督检验所,浙江上虞312369

出　　处：《印染》2019年第13期31-32,33,34,共4页China Dyeing and Finishing

摘　　要：纯棉提花织物采用轧光整理可提高面料的光泽,但整理后存在强力损失大、耐水洗性差等问题。基于对轧光剂CP轧光整理织物结构和形态分析,研究开发了聚丙烯酸酯交联固化体系轧光整理棉织物。结果表明:高温聚丙烯酸酯封端剂BKN效果优于常温封端剂TH;竣酸类交联剂交联效果不如环保交联剂NBD;随着NBD用量的增加,轧光织物光泽度提高,但NBD用量太高对织物手感影响太大;轧光温度提高到230℃可显著提高织物光泽度;采用BKN和NBD轧光后织物光泽度高,且耐水洗性好,强力损失少,整体效果明显优于轧光剂CP轧光整理工艺。Calendar-finishing can enhance the gloss of jacquard cotton fabrics,but it will exert negative influence on the fabric,such as damaged strength and poor durability after washing.Based on the structure and morphology analysis of chemical agent CP finished fabrics,polyacry!ate(PA)-derived cross-linking curing agents are applied to calendar cotton fabric.The results show that the high temperature active PA terminal-capping agent BKN is better than the room temperature active terminal-capping agent TH.The environmentally friendly crosslinking agent NBD is superior to the cross-linking agents with multi-carboxylic acid groups.The increase of the NBD dosage leads to the glossy increase of the calen-dared fabrics,while deteriorates the fabric hand feeling.As the calendaring temperature increases to 230℃,the gloss of the calendared fabric increases significantly.After calendared with both BKN and NBD,the fabric has high gloss with good washing durability,less strength loss,and improved performances compared with that finished with CP resin.

关 键 词：轧光 聚丙烯酸酯 交联剂 光泽度 提花织物 棉 

分 类 号：TS195.441[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]