色织经起花微弹透孔绉布的研制  

Development of Warp Figured Micro Elastic through-hole Yarn Dyed Crepe

作　　者：佟昀 TONG Yun(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Jiangsu Nantong,226007)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2019年第8期39-42,共4页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：中国纺织联合会科技指导性项目(2018024);江苏省高校品牌专业建设工程项目(PPZY2015A093)

摘　　要：总结一款色织经起花微弹透孔绉布的设计与关键生产技术。采用经起花和透孔组织及平纹联合组织;合理进行纹样的花纬和地纬配置;总结了织物规格和上机工艺设计,并用CAD模拟了织物仿真效果;整经注意张力、排列、卷绕均匀;花经上轻浆;地经浆纱重在贴伏毛羽和增加耐磨;采用剑杆织机,双轴织造,分别控制经纱张力。最终保证了产品的顺利生产,织机效率达91%。认为:生产的织物纹样新颖美观,可适宜于做时尚女装面料。The design and key production technology of a warp figured micro elastic through-hole yarn dyed crepe were summarized.Warp figured through-hole texture and plain combination weave were adopted.The fancy weft and ground weft for the pattern was reasonable configured.The fabric specification and loom process design were summarized.CAD was used to simulate the fabric simulation effect.Attention should be paid on the evenness of the tension,arrangement and winding during the warping.Light sizing was performed on fancy warp.Ground warp sizing should focus on the covering hairiness and increasing abrasion resistance.Rapier loom was adopted and double beams were used for weaving to control the warp tension separately.In the end,successful production of product was guaranteed.The loom efficiency was reached up to 91%.It is considered that the fabric pattern produced is fashionable and attractive.It is suitable for fashion womenswear fabrics.

关 键 词：色织物 氨纶包芯纱 经起花织物 弹力绉布 上浆率 剑杆织机 

分 类 号：TS106.591[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]