攀岩运动指屈肌腱鞘滑车系统损伤研究进展  

Research Progress on the Flexor Tendon Pulley System Injuries in Rock Climbing

作　　者：田兵兵 李元[1,2] TIAN Bingbing;LI Yuan(China University of Geosciences,Wuhan 430074,China;China Institute of Mountaineering and Outdoor Recreation,Wuhan 430074,China)

机构地区：[1]中国地质大学(武汉),湖北武汉430074 [2]中国登山户外运动学院,湖北武汉430074

出　　处：《中国体育科技》2019年第7期3-13,共11页China Sport Science and Technology

基　　金：国家体育总局登山运动管理中心重点科研项目(CMA2015-A-C01);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(CUGW170203);中国地质大学(武汉)学科培育计划项目(2015-1)

摘　　要：攀岩运动损伤风险日益受到关注。通过查阅国内外攀岩运动指屈肌腱鞘滑车系统(简称“滑车”)损伤的相关文献,在手指滑车解剖学特征的基础上,对攀岩运动手指滑车损伤的发生率、损伤部位、损伤类型等损伤特征、损伤原因、诊断治疗方法和预防策略进行了梳理。研究结果表明,手指滑车损伤是攀岩运动中最常见的损伤类型,主要发生在中指和无名指的A2、A4滑车,损伤类型多为过度使用性损伤与急性损伤,但损伤等级大多较低;损伤的原因主要有手指解剖学结构、手部动作生物力学特征和训练学因素等;损伤诊断主要通过临床观察和先进成像技术,治疗包括保守性非手术治疗以及滑车修复、重建等手术治疗方式;充分热身准备、恰当的攀爬抓握技巧等可降低损伤风险。建议进一步探讨预防损伤的方法,并针对不同人群进行长期跟踪研究,以加深对损伤机制的认识,更好地帮助攀岩教练员与运动员预防损伤发生。Rock Climbing injury risk has attracted increasing attention.Through review of the related literatures of finger pulley injuries in rock climbing,this study systematically analyzed the injuries location,types,mechanism,diagnosis and treatment methods and prevention strategies in the basis of the anatomical characteristics of the finger pulley.The results show that the finger pulley injuries are the most common type of injuries in rock climbing;the injuries occur mainly in the A2 and A4 pulley of the middle finger and the ring finger;the injuries types are mostly overuse injuries and acute injuries,but the injuries level are mostly low;the main causes of injuries are finger anatomy structure,biomechanical characteristics of hand movements and training factors;injuries diagnosis are mainly through clinical observation and advanced imaging technology,and treatment includes conservative non-surgical treatment and surgical treatment such as pulley repair and reconstruction;adequate warm-up preparation,proper climbing and grasping techniques can reduce the risk of injuries.It is recommended to further explore ways to prevent injury and conduct long-term follow-up studies for different groups of people to deepen the understanding of the injuries mechanism.

关 键 词：攀岩 指屈肌腱鞘滑车系统损伤 研究进展 

分 类 号：G804.53[文化科学—运动人体科学]