牛仔用纯亚麻经纱上浆配方优化研究  

Study on the proportion optimization of sizing for flax warp yarns used in denim

作　　者：曹新伟[1] 高一传 朱博[1] 仇振华 王宗伟 刘建立[1] 高卫东[1] CAO Xinwei;GAO Yichuan;ZHU Bo;QIU Zhenhua;WANG Zongwei;LIU Jianli;GAO Weidong(Key Laboratory of Eco-textiles,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Black Peony Group Co.,Ltd.,Changzhou 213000,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室 [2]黑牡丹纺织有限公司

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2019年第9期30-33,38,共5页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：2016年江南大学吴江高新区大学生创新创业基金项目（1066010242160120）;江苏省产学研前瞻性联合研究项目（BY2015019-07）;江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心科研项目（XJFZ/2016/15）

摘　　要：为了优化牛仔用纯亚麻经纱上浆的玉米氧化淀粉和聚丙烯酰胺浆料的配方比例,设计了10种浆料复配比例,采用不同配方下的浆料分别对41.65 tex(14^s)和34.3 tex(17^s)牛仔用纯亚麻纱线进行上浆,测试其断裂强力、断裂伸长率、耐磨性等上浆性能。最后以纱线的增强率、增伸率和耐磨倍数为指标,采用权重分析法对浆料配方进行优化和筛选。结果表明,当聚丙烯酰胺质量分数为25%时,浆纱性能达到最佳。In order to optimize the proportion of oxidized starch and polyacrylamide for flax warp yarns sizing which are used in denim,10 kinds of sizing distribution ratio are designed. Flax yarns of 41.65 tex(14 s) and 34.3 tex(17 s) are sized with different sizing agents respectively, and the sizing properties such as breaking strength, elongation at break and abrasion resistance are tested. The method of weight coefficient is proposed to calculate the optimal proportion of polyacrylamide. The results show that when the mass fraction of polyacrylamide is25%, the sizing performance is the best.

关 键 词：牛仔布 亚麻纱 上浆 淀粉 聚丙烯酰胺 配方优化 权重分析 

分 类 号：TS124.34[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]