经编全成型男式背心的透气透湿性能与款式分区设计  

Air and moisture permeability and style partition design of warp knitting men’s vest

作　　者：张囡 蒋高明[1,2] 董智佳[1,2] 储开元 ZHANG Nan;JIANG Gaoming;DONG Zhijia;CHU Kaiyuan(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China;Key Laboratory of Eco-textiles, Ministry of Education Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China;Jiangsu Huayi Knitting Co., Ltd., Yixing 214200, China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室,江苏无锡214122 [3]江苏华宜针织有限公司,江苏宜兴214200

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2019年第10期67-70,共4页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：国家自然科学基金(61772238);江苏省产学研联合创新资金-前瞻性联合研究项目(BY2016022-42)

摘　　要：为提高经编全成型运动男式背心的透气、透湿性能,优化了贾卡网孔组织在运动男装功能分区设计上的应用。通过分析男性人体上半身的热湿分布,对胸、背部进行分区设计并开发无袖款式背心。选取8种经编贾卡网孔组织,对其透湿、透气性进行测试,并研究了横向拉伸与透气、透湿性的变化关系。结果表明:吸湿排汗助剂的使用增强了贾卡网孔组织的透湿性;随着织物横向拉伸百分比的增加,网孔组织的透气性逐渐增强,透湿量逐渐增大。结合人体功能特征和织物横向拉伸对性能的影响,进行款式分区设计,选择合适的贾卡网孔组织应用于服装不同部位,有效提高了经编全成型运动男装的透气和透湿性能。In order to improve the overall air and moisture permeability of the warp-knitting men’ s vest, the application of Jacquardmesh stitch in the functional partition design of sports men’s wear is optimized. By analyzing the heat and moisture distribution of the upperbody of the male body, the chest and back are partitioned and the sleeveless vest style is developed. Eight kinds of warp knitted Jacquardmeshes are selected in the experiment, moisture permeability and air permeability are tested, and the relationship between air and moisturepermeability and transverse stretching is studied. The experimental results show that the use of moisture wicking aid can enhance the moisturepermeability of the Jacquard mesh stitch;as the percentage of transverse stretch of the fabric increases, the air permeability of the meshstructure gradually increases, and the moisture permeability increases gradually. Combining the characteristics of human body function andthe effect of fabric transverse stretching on performance, the style partition design is carried out, and the appropriate Jacquard mesh stitch isselected for different parts of the garment to effectively improve the breathability and moisture permeability of the warp knitting fully sportsmen’s wear.

关 键 词：经编织物 服装设计 背心 贾卡网孔组织 透气性 透湿性 分区设计 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]