茜草植物染料在羊绒纤维染色中的应用  

Application of rubia vegetable dyes in cashmere fiber dyeing

作　　者：程彦 田君 李星 李娜 王友 CHENG Yan;TIAN Jun;LI Xing;LI Na;WANG You(Inner Mongolia Erdos Cashmere Group Co.,Ltd.,Erdos,Inner Mongolia 017000,China;National Cashmere Products Engineering&Technical Research Center,Erdos,Inner Mongolia 017000,China;Inner Mongolia Cashmere Technology Research Institute Limited,Erdos,Inner Mongolia 017000,China)

机构地区：[1]内蒙古鄂尔多斯羊绒集团有限责任公司,内蒙古鄂尔多斯017000 [2]国家羊绒制品工程技术研究中心,内蒙古鄂尔多斯017000 [3]内蒙古羊绒技术研究院有限公司,内蒙古鄂尔多斯017000

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2019年第8期45-47,共3页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：内蒙古自治区应用技术研究与开发专项资金项目(2060402)

摘　　要：针对茜草植物染料染色羊绒纤维时,耐日晒和耐水洗色牢度均低于3级、颜色重现性差的问题,采用明矾预媒染色方法对羊绒纤维进行染色,结果表明:在染液pH值4.0~4.5,明矾媒染剂质量浓度0.5~1.0 g/L,茜草染料用量低于0.5%(owf)时,染液可基本吸清,颜色重现性好,且羊绒纤维手感不受影响,耐日晒和耐水洗色牢度均可提高0.5级以上,采用羊毛保护剂可以改善媒染后羊绒纤维手感,明矾媒染对色光有加深的影响,媒染前后纤维色光变化较小。Aiming at solving the problem that color fastness to light and to washing of cashmere fibers dyed with rubia plant dyes was lower than grade 3 and color repeatability is poor,cashmere fibers were dyed by alum pre-mordant dyeing method.Test results show that when alum pre-mordant dyeing is used,pH value of dye solution is 4.0-4.5,concentration of alum mordant is 0.5-1.0 g/L,and dosage of rubia plant dyes is lower than 0.5%(owf),dye solution can be almost absorbed,color reproduction is good,and the hand feeling of cashmere fiber is not affected.Color fastness to both light and washing is improved by more than 0.5 grade.Hand feeling of cashmere after mordant dyeing can be improved by using wool protectant.Color shade change of cashmere before and after mordant dyeing is less than that of alum mordant dyeing.Through the study of pre-mordant dyeing method and process conditions,this paper provides a reference for the implementation and control of cashmere plant dyeing products.

关 键 词：茜草植物染料 羊绒纤维 色牢度 重现性 

分 类 号：TS193.62[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]