特体男西装样版补正技术研究  

Research on pattern correction technology of special type men′s suit

作　　者：张媛媛[1] 安凌中[1] 闫琳[1] 董辉 ZHANG Yuanyuan;AN Lingzhong;YAN Lin;DONG Hui(Institute of Textile Engineering College,Yantai Nanshan University,Yantai,Shandong 265706,China;Shandong Nanshan Textile Garments Co.,Ltd.,Yantai,Shandong 265706,China)

机构地区：[1]烟台南山学院工学院,山东烟台265706 [2]山东南山纺织服饰有限公司,山东烟台265706

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2019年第8期53-56,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：山东省本科高校教学改革研究项目(M2018X319)

摘　　要：传统成衣生产均以标准人体号型为依据,不考虑个体体型差异。特体消费者穿着标准体服装会出现各种弊病且影响美观。针对特体消费者对服装的形式美感及功能性需求的问题,以男西装为研究对象,排除面料性能对西装的影响,从服装结构角度为挺胸体、驼背体、凸肚体、溜肩等特体寻求科学合理的衣片补正方法,以“掩盖体型缺陷为主,符合体型特点为辅”的调整原则,尽可能满足特体消费者着装后美观、舒适,且掩饰体型缺陷的目的。Traditional garment production is based on the standard body size,regardless of the body sizes and the body shape.Consumers with special body will suffer from various maladies in their normal clothing and affect their appearance.It is particularly important to meet the aesthetic and functional needs in fashion form for special consumer group.The men′s suits were taken as the research object for formal aesthetics and functional requirements of special consumers in this article,a scientific and reasonable method to correct the clothing patches from the professional point of view for the special body shapes such as straightening chest,hunchback,bulging belly,shoulder defects,and so on were explored exclude the influence of fabric properties on the structure of suits.The adjustment principle of′covering body shape defects primarily,conforming to body shape characteristics as a supplement′was adopted as far as possible,to fulfill the requirements of beauty and comfort after wearing and covering up the defects of body.

关 键 词：特体 西装 结构设计 挺胸体 驼背体 凸肚体 

分 类 号：TS941.712[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]