胡服盛行与女着男装——论唐代前期服饰风尚与女性社会地位关系  

The Popularity of Alien-style Clothing and Women in Menswear——Also on the Relationship between the Costume Fashion and Women’s Social Status in the Early Tang Dynasty

作　　者：谭重言 刘裕伦 陈梓森 Tan Zhongyan

机构地区：[1]西北大学历史学院

出　　处：《文博》2019年第4期69-75,共7页

摘　　要：胡服盛行和女着男装是唐代妇女服饰的一个独特景象。从胡风元素在初唐女性服饰中的承继发展,到因丝绸之路繁荣而带来的胡人服饰的流行,再到安史之乱后胡风元素逐渐消失,这一景象和过程体现了自魏晋南北朝以来胡汉文化的长期交流融合、唐人开放包容的社会心理、李唐皇室固有的胡人心态、唐代女性的审美观念以及政治事件、民族关系对潮流风尚的影响。但从其仅流行于安史之乱以前的身份较低的阶层以及唐代服饰风尚的变化和社会活动变化的不一致来看,很难与唐代女性意识觉醒以及女性社会地位之提升相关联。The popularity of alien-style clothing and women in menswear were unique situations of women's costume fashion in the Tang Dynasty.From the succession of the alien-style elements by the women's costumes in the early Tang Dynasty,to the flourishing of the exotic style of costumes brought in through the prosperous Silk Road and the declining of the alien-style elements after An Lushan Rebellion,this process showed the influences of long-term communication and convergence of the exotic and Chinese cultures since the Northern and Southern Dynasties Period,the opening and inclusive social psychology of the Tang people,the mental situation of the imperial family of the Tang Dynasty as descendants of nomadic tribe,women's aesthetic senses of the Tang Dynasty and political events and ethnic relationships to the vogues and fashions.However,seen from the facts that these fashions were only limited to the women in lower classes before An Lushan Rebellion,and they were inconsistent with the changes of the costume fashions and social activities,the alien-style clothing and women in menswear could hardly be related to the awareness of Feminine consciousness and the promotion of the social status of the women of the Tang Dynasty.

关 键 词：胡服 女着男装 服饰风尚 女性地位 

分 类 号：I20[文学—中国文学]