牛仔刺绣图案褪色的后整理工艺  

Finishing Technic of Fading Problem of Denim Embroidery Pattern

作　　者：王建萍[1] 杨威 黄芳 WANG Jingping;YANG Wei;HUANG Fang(School of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Giantextile(Shanghai)Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 200122,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]济达(上海)纺织品有限公司,上海200122

出　　处：《服装学报》2019年第4期288-292,共5页Journal of Clothing Research

摘　　要：刺绣牛仔服装复杂的后整理工艺可使刺绣图案褪色。选取20块实验面料,探究了涤纶线、人造丝线两种绣花线和酵素洗、漂洗两种后整理工艺处理中造成牛仔刺绣图案洗后褪色的影响因素,分析牛仔刺绣图案洗后褪色程度的变化规律。采用模糊综合评价法评估洗后实验面料,并对评判数据进行综合分析。结果表明,漂洗工艺会使人造丝线刺绣图案产生褪色现象,人造丝线刺绣、重漂洗工艺下(次氯酸钠质量分数为2%)的牛仔刺绣样品最受消费者青睐。Aiming at the problem of fading embroidery pattern in embroidered jeans after complicated finishing process,twenty experimental fabrics were selected in the paper as the research objects.Two kinds of embroidery threads,polyester threads and rayon threads,and two kinds of finishing technics,enzyme washing and beaching were selected to carry out experiments in the paper to explore the influence factors and changing rules about the embroidery pattern fading.The paper uses vague comprehensive evaluation method to comprehensively analysis the evaluation data and finally comes to conclusion that rinsing process could cause the discoloration of the embroidery pattern of rayon thread and embroidery denim samples with rayon thread and heavy bleaching(hypochlorite concentration controlls at 2%)get the highest evaluation data.

关 键 词：牛仔刺绣图案 绣花线 漂洗褪色 模糊评价 

分 类 号：TS195[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]