XLA与LYCRA两种包芯纱的工艺优化及其质量对比分析  

Process optimization and quality comparison of XLA and LYCRA core-spun yarns

作　　者：魏艳红 刘新金 胡晗 贺若羽 李璇 WEI Yanhong;LIU Xinjin;HU Han;HE Ruoyu;LI Xuan(Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室

出　　处：《丝绸》2019年第9期35-42,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划项目(SJCX18_0623);江苏省科技副总项目(FZ20180497);江苏省产学研合作项目(BY2018185);国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309200);江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心基金项目(XJFZ/2018/09)

摘　　要：为了更好地了解XLA与LYCRA两种弹性纤维及其包芯纱的性能,文章分别采用全聚纺、全聚赛络纺纺纱技术生产了JC/XLA与JC/LYCRA两种包芯纱。介绍了全聚赛络纺包芯纱的成纱原理,对比分析了两种弹性纤维的性能,通过对纱线捻系数、弹性长丝的牵伸倍数、喇叭口位置等纺纱工艺进行优化,确定最优工艺,并对比两种弹性纤维的包芯纱线性能。结果表明:与全聚纺相比,采用全聚赛络纺纺纱方式生产包芯纱,可以明显改善成纱条干、减少纱线毛羽、提高纱线强力、改善芯丝的包覆效果;XLA包芯纱比LYCRA包芯纱结构更光滑紧密,LYCRA弹性高、回弹力较大,回缩力使LYCRA包芯纱易起隆,影响纱线的条干与毛羽。To better understand the performances of XLA and LYCRA elastic fibers and their core-spun yarns,JC/XLA and JC/LYCRA core-spun yarns were spun by using the complete condensed spinning and the complete condensed Siro-spinning technology.This paper introduced the yarn forming principle of the complete condensing Siro-spinning,and compared the performance of the two elastic fibers.The optimum process was determined by optimizing the spinning process,such as the yarn twist factor,draft multiple of the elastic filament,and the bell mouth position.Core-spun yarn properties of the two kinds of elastic fibers were compared.The results show that compared with the complete condensed spinning,the production of core-spun yarn by the complete condensed Siro-spinning method could significantly improve the yarn evenness,reduce the yarn hairiness,enhance the yarn strength and improve the covering effect of the core yarn.The structure of XLA core-spun yarn is smoother and tighter than that of the LYCRA core-spun yarn.LYCRA core-spun yarn has high elasticity and resilience force.However,the retraction force makes LYCRA core-spun yarn easy to pucker,thus influencing yarn evenness and hairiness.

关 键 词：包芯纱 弹性纤维 纱线条干 包覆性 全聚赛络纺 

分 类 号：TS104.16[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]