影响云南楚雄彝族刺绣纹样风格的因素探析  

Study on the factors affecting the embroidery pattern style of Yi people in Yunnan Chuxiong

作　　者：彭泽洋 邓可卉[1] PENG Zeyang;DENG Kehui(School of Humanities,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学人文学院

出　　处：《丝绸》2019年第9期97-102,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：中央高校科研业务费专项资助项目(20190617)

摘　　要：云南楚雄彝族自治州刺绣作为当地有名的非物质文化遗产之一,历史悠久,且具有较高的研究价值。在实地考察和阅读地方志《楚雄府志》基础上,从纹样构成与题材两个方面对其风格的表征进行分析,总结这一地区彝族刺绣的艺术风格,并试图找出影响风格形成与发展的因素,为保护文化传承提供借鉴。研究发现,楚雄彝族刺绣风格主要体现在形式上运用连续与对称图案、内容上将现实与虚幻进行结合。研究认为,风格成因可以概括为两方面:首先,“赛装节”等传统习俗对风格形成起到了潜移默化的推动作用;其次,相对落后的织造技艺为刺绣发展提供了直接发展动力。The embroidery of Yunnan Chuxiong Yi autonomous prefecture is one of the famous intangible cultural heritages,which has a long history and high research value.Based on the field study and reading“the Chuxiong government record”,the style characterization of the embroidery was analyzed from two aspects:pattern composition and theme.The artistic style of Yi embroidery was summarized.Moreover,the authors tried to find out the factors influencing the style formation and development so as to provide a reference for the protection of cultural heritage.The study finds that the embroidery of the Chuxiong Yi nationality is mainly embodied in the form of continuous and symmetrical pattern and the combination of reality and fiction.The research suggests that style formation reasons can be summed up in two aspects.First of all,traditional customs such as“costume competition festival”promote the formation of the style.Secondly,the relatively backward weaving technique provides direct development impetus for the development of embroidery.

关 键 词：楚雄彝族 刺绣 组织纹样 风格研究 赛装节 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]