新疆柯尔克孜族地织机织造技艺与服饰结构考析  

An analysis on weaving techniques and garment structures of ground loom of the Kirgiz in Xinjiang

作　　者：闫文奇 葛梦嘉 肖爱民[1] 刘鹏林 饶蕾[1] 麦合普热提·艾力 YAN Wenqi;GE Mengjia;XIAO Aimin;LIU Penglin;RAO Lei;AILI Maihepureti(College of Textiles and Clothing,Xinjiang University,Urumqi 830046,China;Nanhu College,Jiaxing University,Jiaxing 314001,China)

机构地区：[1]新疆大学纺织与服装学院,乌鲁木齐830046 [2]嘉兴学院南湖学院,浙江嘉兴314001

出　　处：《丝绸》2019年第9期103-109,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金西部项目(17XMZ095);教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(18YJC760108);清华大学柒牌非物质文化遗产研究与保护项目(201704);喀什大学校内重点课题项目((14)1492);新疆大学大学生创新项目(201710755008)

摘　　要：针对当代柯尔克孜族研究“饰”重于“技”,以及史学研究注重文献研究而较缺乏实证考据的研究现状,文章采取文献与实物研究相结合更侧重实物研究的二重考证方法,对新疆克孜勒苏柯尔克孜自治州的阿克陶县、阿合奇县、乌恰县等相关县乡的传统地织机织造技艺进行田野考察,并与传承人交流学习,分析新疆柯尔克孜族传统织造技艺的织造流程与织机类型对布幅的限制,并由此来分析柯尔克孜族传统袍服的结构,佐证布幅决定结构这一概念。通过对其传统织造技艺的分析,得出地织机织造的局限性影响布幅的幅宽,幅宽决定了服装的整体结构。In view of the current situation that Kirgiz people make“decoration”more important than“technology”and the historical researches focus more on literature research than empirical research,this paper combined literature and physical research and put the particular emphasis on physical research to carry out field survey of weaving process of traditional ground weaving machine in Akto County,Aqiqi County,and Wuchai County in the Kizil Sokkol Autonomous Prefecture in Sinkiang.Meanwhile,the authors exchanged and learned from the inheritors to analyze the limitations of the weaving process of traditional Kirgiz weaving skills and the loom type on the fabric width.On this basis,the structure of traditional Kirgiz gown was analyzed to verify the concept that the fabric width decides the structure.It is concluded that,the limitation of weaving by the ground weaving machine affects the fabric breadth,while the breadth decides the overall structure of the costume.

关 键 词：柯尔克孜族 地织机 袷袢 布幅 新疆 

分 类 号：TS941.55[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]