彩色纤维数字化混色构建的渐变色谱及渐变色纱线的纺制实践  

Gradient Chromatography Constructed by Digital Color Mixing of Colored Fibers and Spun Practice of Related Gradient Yarns

作　　者：张震 崔鹏 薛元[1] 刘曰兴 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院 [2]愉悦家纺有限公司

出　　处：《纺织导报》2019年第10期60-64,共5页China Textile Leader

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(JUSRP51631A);中国纺织工业联合会应用基础研究资助项目(J201506);江苏高校优势学科建设工程资助项目(苏政办发[2014]37号)

摘　　要：文章提出了基于彩色纤维数字化混色构建渐变色谱的方法,研制了数字化纺制渐变色纱线及其面料的工艺方法,为纺制渐变色纺织品提供了数字化加工路径。重点研究了八元基色纤维的配色模型和混色体系,将八元基色纤维中的两种或3种彩色纤维组合配对,并以10%的递增梯度进行混合,给出了八元基色彩色纤维混合体系的RGB值计算方法及其二次色与三次色混色色谱;以此为基础规划了大三角循环渐变、中三角循环渐变、小三角循环渐变和45°循环渐变等4种渐变路径,遵循颜色混合准则计算并绘制了八元基色彩色纤维的渐变色谱;依据该渐变色谱给出了4类渐变色纱线模型及其纺纱工艺设计方法,纺制了4类渐变色纱线及其针织面料。The paper proposed a method of constructing gradient chromatography based on digital color mixing of colored fibers,and researched on the process of digital gradient yarns and its fabric,so as to provide a digital process for spinning gradient textiles.The paper mainly studies the color matching model and color mixing system of octal primary color fiber.Two or three kinds of colored fiber combinations of octal primary color fiber are matched and mixed by a 10%incremental gradient,so that the paper put forward the RGB value calculation method and its secondary color and tertiary color mixing chromatogram.On the basis of that,four gradient paths,i.e.,large triangle cycle gradient,medium triangle cycle gradient,small triangle cycle gradient and a 45°cycle gradient,are planned.And the gradation chromatogram of the octal primary-colored fiber was calculated and drawn based on the color mixing criterion.According to the gradation chromatogram,four types of gradient yarn models and related design methods for their spinning process were given,four kinds of gradient yarns and related knitted fabric were produced.

关 键 词：数字化混色 数码纺纱 渐变色谱 渐变纱 

分 类 号：TS104[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]