服用蜂巢提花锦纶织物面料设计与生产  

Design and Production of Polyamide Fabric with Honeycomb Jacquard for Garment

作　　者：蔡秉岳 蔡永东 

机构地区：[1]盐城工学院材料科学与工程学院 [2]江苏工程职业技术学院

出　　处：《纺织导报》2019年第9期68-68,70,共2页China Textile Leader

基　　金：2014年江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心资助项目（苏政办[2014]-22-3-4）

摘　　要：为开发一种服用蜂巢提花锦纶织物,分别采用70 D锦纶全拉伸丝、160 D锦纶空气变形丝作为经、纬纱进行产品开发。文章重点对整经、浆丝、并轴、穿经、喷水织造等主要工序的生产工艺进行优化设计,如整经时重点控制片纱张力的均匀性,浆丝时选用合适浆料进行上浆、适当调高上浆率,织造时合理设定喷水引纬参数及其他上机工艺参数等,从而较好地适应了喷水织机高速织造的需要,并保证了产品质量。In order to develop a polyamide fabric with honeycomb jacquard for garment, 70 D polyamide FDY and 160 D polyamide ATY were used as the warp and weft yarns for product development. The paper focuses on optimizing the main production processes, including warping, sizing, re-beaming, drawing-in and water-jet weaving. For example, control the uniformity of yarn tension during warping;select suitable pulp for sizing to increase sizing percentage;and set water-jet weft insertion parameters and other set factors, so as to better adapt to the high-speed weaving of water-jet looms and ensure product quality.

关 键 词：锦纶长丝 蜂巢组织 提花织物 产品设计 生产工艺 

分 类 号：TS155[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]