服装缝纫平整度的研究进展  

Research progress on flatness of garment sewing

作　　者：肖平[1,2,3] 钱伯丹 鲁虹 张向辉[1,2,3] 张媛 XIAO Ping;QIAN Bodan;LU Hong;ZHANG Xianghui;ZHANG Yuan(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Shanghai Institute of Design and Innovation,Tongji University,Shanghai 200092,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051 [3]同济大学上海国际设计创新研究院,上海200092

出　　处：《纺织学报》2019年第11期182-188,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(17D110710,2232019G-08);上海市设计学IV类高峰学科资助项目(DD18003,DB18207);国家级大学生创新资助项目(17T10710)

摘　　要：为有效评价服装缝纫外观质量,对国内外服装外观评价标准以及相关研究进行了梳理,分别从织物性能与缝纫条件2个方面归纳了表征服装外观质量级别的接缝外观平整度的影响因素,探讨了缝纫平整度的主观、客观评价方法,从多因子角度综合分析缝纫工艺因素对平整度的影响。认为需提高织物物理力学性能与织物缝纫褶皱等级之间的数学模型的精度,改进基于面料物理性能指标的平整度预测模型,开展曲线接缝服装部件的平整度研究,并建立服装外观质量智能评价新模型。同时从服装生产制作角度对服装缝纫平整度的研究方向进行展望。In order to effectively evaluate the quality of sewing flatness of garments,the domestic and foreign clothing appearance evaluation standards and related research were sorted out.From two aspects of fabric performance and sewing conditions,the influence factors of flatness were summerized,and the evaluation methods of sewing flatness were discussed by subjective evaluation and objective evaluation.The influence of the sewing process factors on the flatness was comprehensively analyzed from a multi-factorial perspective.It is necessary to improve the accuracy of the mathematical model between the physical and mechanical properties of the fabric and the sewing wrinkle level of the fabric,improve the flatness prediction model based on the physical properties of the fabric,and seek the study of the flatness of the garment parts of the curved joint.It is proposed to establish a new model for the intelligent evaluation of garment appearance quality,and prospect the research direction of garment sewing flatness from the perspective of garment production and production,which provides a reference for the subsequent study of sewing flatness and garment making.

关 键 词：服装外观质量 缝纫平整度 织物性能 缝纫条件 平整度评价 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]