一款粗犷风格牛仔面料的生产要点  

Production Key Point of A Rough Style Denim Fabric

作　　者：刘幸乐 LIU Xingle(Hebei Xindadong Textile Co.,Ltd.,Hebei Shijiazhuang,050000)

机构地区：[1]河北新大东纺织有限公司

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2019年第12期70-73,共4页Cotton Textile Technology

摘　　要：总结一款粗犷风格牛仔面料的设计与生产要点。采用赛络纺C 73 tex纱与竹节纱为经纱;纬纱采用染色的涤纶短纤纱与竹节纱的合股线;整经张力40 cN,整经速度600 m/min;先煮练后染色、浆纱,并介绍了染色和浆纱的主要工艺;后整理采用烧毛和退浆防缩。对比分析了水洗前、后面料的风格。测试结果表明:面料的各项物理指标均达到了设计要求。认为:面料风格独特,可适用于秋冬款男装牛仔服装。Design and production key points of a rough style denim fabric were summarized.Siro spinning C 73 tex yarn and slub yarn were adopted as warp.Ply of colored polyester yarn and slub yarn were adopted as weft.Warping tension was 40 cN,warping speed was 600 m/min.First scouring,then dyeing and sizing,main processes of dyeing and sizing were introduced.Singeing and desizing shrink-proof were adopted in finishing process.Fabric styles before and after washing were analyzed.The test results showed that physical indexes of fabrics were met design requirements.It is considered that fabric style is unique,which can be applied to men's denim clothing in autumn and winter.

关 键 词：竹节纱 股线 整经速度 煮练 染色 浆纱 剑杆织机 后整理 

分 类 号：TS106.52[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]