提高精纺羊毛织物褶裥保持性的后整理工艺  

Study on finishing process for improving pleat retention of worsted wool fabric

作　　者：庄伟华 杨德明 符爱芬 俞金林 詹永娟 沈彧超 ZHUANG Weihua;YANG Deming;FU Aifen;YU Jinlin;ZHAN Yongjuan;SHEN Yuchao(Jiangsu Danmao Textile Co.,Ltd.,Danyang,Jiangsu 212351,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2019年第11期22-25,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：“十三五”国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309200)

摘　　要：为改善精纺羊毛织物褶裥保持性,提高羊毛织物品质,提出了提高精纺羊毛织物褶裥保持性后整理工艺路径。针对已有生产实践,确定双槽煮呢工艺及聚氨酯树脂抗皱整理工艺等作为影响面料褶裥保持性的主要工艺,并分别设计正交试验方案,探究煮呢工艺、树脂整理工艺对织物折皱回复角、毡缩率、落水变形、褶裥外观等指标影响规律,建立煮呢、树脂整理工艺与织物褶裥保持性的关系。结果表明:随着煮呢工艺加压次数的增加、温度提高,精纺羊毛织物折皱回复角提高;当聚氨酯抗皱整理剂BAP质量浓度为45 g/L、轧液率为60%、烘焙温度为190℃时,面料具有优良的褶裥保持性。In order to improve the pleat retention of worsted wool fabrics and improve the quality of wool fabrics,a method to improve the pleating retention of worsted wool fabrics was proposed.In reference of the existed research,the 2-tank cooking process and the anti-wrinkle finishing process with polyurethane resin were determined as the main processes affecting the pleat retention of the fabric.The orthogonal experimental scheme was respectively designed to study the influence of cooking process and resin finishing process on the wrinkle recovery angle,felting rate,falling water deformation,pleated appearance and other indicators,then established the relationship between the either process and the pleat retention.The results showed that the wrinkle recovery angle of the worsted wool fabric increased with the increase of the number of the pressurization and the temperature.The fabric reached the best pleat retention,when the dosage of the polyurethane anti-crease finishing agent BAP got 45 g/L with the rolling rate of 60%and the baking temperature of 190℃.

关 键 词：全毛精纺羊毛织物 双槽煮呢 树脂整理 折皱回复角 毡缩率 落水变形 褶裥外观 

分 类 号：TS195.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]